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Buy the motor and controller kit separately, look at the offerings at Topbikekit .com. For 48v opt for a 15 or 17a controller kit, as it will be left at a college theft or damage is likely so for a display opt for the discreet KT lcd4 and use tow good chains/locks to secure both wheel and the...

P1 is a setting based on the motor magnets x the gear ratio, most hubs with a 4 - 5:1 ratio works out at value of approx. 84 - 87. If the above figures aren't known one can use a GPS to set the value. Set the display cut off speed to 25km/h or 15.5mph and go for a ride, adjust the P1 value up...

Whether one flips the sensor 180 or flips the magnets, it matters not as flip any one of them will work.

With a KT cadence control system you get 5 power/current level's, so one can work a bit or take it easy. PAS 1 13%, PAS 2 20%, PAS3 33%, PAS 4 50% & PAS 5 100%. If you really want a work out ride unpowered, with a TS drive if you are weak or tired then you will struggle with the TS multiplier...

48v rear hub is easier on the drive train and you can keep the cassette gears with cst/cassette hub. A mid drive will require your tired legs to drive the motor harder then a hub drive, combine the hub drive with the excellent KT torque simulation /current control system. Or buy a 48v hub kit...

The battery and controller are optimised then for current the battery can supply.

On my touring bike, I have a water bottle bracket that attaches to the head set stem. p.s Bracket should read clamp.

Rear hub motor kit using KT electronics is the best option, one can opt for mid drive kits but the kits tend to be unreliable after a 1.5k miles in my experience.

LCD's aren't generally compatible between different brands/makes even if the same connector is used. Command protocols carried by the TX/RX lines will be programmed differently. Controller brand may help.

It is the battery BMS that dictates the continuous current that can be suppled, it may be possible to replace the BMS with a higher continuous discharge one BUT you would need to know the exact cells used and the parallel configuration. Likely the current BMS is optimised for the cells current...

When it comes to noisy cassettes there aren't too many causes available.

Manuals often don't help much as they only generally offer how to look after your bike, they don't tell you how to repair a bike and only give a few fault finding tips as to what may be wrong. You are best asking questions on the forum where you will usually get an answer or three on any issues...

I use a tub of Castrol moly grease, It's been knocking about for some 40 years as I remember having it when I used to fix my cars.

The PAS magnet disc is on back to front, magnets have a N or S orientation so any force is push or pull. There are three options, rotate the disc face, push each magnet out and put them back in again reversing the face (simply done by detecting if you need the push or pull side) or one can...

Just in case there is a fitting issue or locking issue, the new batteries often/usually come with a new battery fitting kit so one can simply replace like for like. You may find the battery 10mm longer or something else slightly different or it might be a direct simple fit in.

Good question, maybe they are pulling the wool and labelling them as 250w so not to be illegal. How one gets some twice the stated NM without the motor being rated higher I don't know. Needs someone better to explain, is it down to programming wizardry, gearing or stronger build components ...

For 16 miles if it is of large capacity every other use, other wise daily if it is a 10ah or less. Generally I leave batteries in a discharged state down to about 50% then charge several hours before I need the bike a again. If I am only doing short journeys <5 miles during the course of the...

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The issue likely is to do with the rear wheel one would suggest as it was fine prior to this. Does it have a separate wheel sensor /spoke magnet ? If so make sure it isn't damaged or the spoke magnet is missing or out of alignment. Was the motor damaged or in contact with the ground ?

Freehub bearings or freehub loose and the threaded retainer needs torqueing up. The second film was a bit dark but to me it looks like the cassette is wobbling a bit so I would first check the threaded retainer.