Search results

I'm not sure about this, but I've got a feeling that the hall orientation relates to the phase angle. Unfortunately, the KT controller, though very versatile, has to be manually configured to match the motor characteristics.

Bigstone matches Lishui (LSW)controllers. KT controllers have to be matched with KT LCDs. It's not so much the protocols, but more the actual commands, like I tell you to ride your Haibike to Rollesby. You reply that you don't have Haibike, where TF is Rollesby, and why should you anyway? You...

I've ridden hundreds of different electric bikes. They're all different and they all work. When looking at the individual differences, what's better is always open to interpretation. I make a simple rule: hub-motor with cadence PAS is very good for everything on-road (shopping, touring...

The whole idea of the BMS is to protect the battery from over-current. It is the fuse, so you shouldn't need a separate one. In many of the batteries that use standard cases like that, the fuse isn't even connected.

the difference between the Oxygen C6 and the Bigstone C600 is that the connectors are the other way round. I think the same applies to the throttle and brake connectors, which are also reversed from standard, and maybe the cable connector at the controller. DAS kit did that, so that you had to...

It gives more grunt. It'll change the speed on the road in the low to mid range, but won't make much difference once you go over somewhere around 15 mph. The only real downside is it reduces your range because you're using up the battery faster. There are loads of threads on this subject...

It should spin maybe two turns when on the bike. Motors are generators when you turn them. If there is no way for the generated current to flow, the motor should turn without any resistance, but if there's any path from one phase to the other, the effort to turn the motor goes up rapidly. If...

Which controller did you get? The ideal one would have had fully automatic phase angle and hall configuration, but I think the ones with the self-learning wires might be a able to figure it out as well - maybe not the phase angle

The manual shifting ones were designed for normal bikes, where they don't get so much pressure on the chain. The mechanism allows for shifting at any time and it doesn't do any harm to it even under full pressure from a crank motor. Now we come to the BUT. The higher the tension on the chain...

It doesn't. Do the test I said

The torque arm will only work if you can get it onto the axle flats. If you can't get it on that side, it might fit on the other.

I never really studied one of those sensors before. Maybe you have to take out three magnets. We'll try that next time. 12 magnet sensors seem to have the least compatibility. I never had a problem with a 5 magnet one.

Another happy ending. Well done.

It's a geared motor and probably quite powerful. The problem is that the power is regulated by the controller at 14 amps. You can take it up to around 17 or 18 amps, which will be quite an improvement. There's a shunt in the controller which tells the CPU how much current is flowing. By...

Very satisfying, isn't it? After you've done a few, you get the feel for how hard to turn the key so that you can get all the spokes the same tension, which keeps the rim true.

List up all the P and C settings.

You might be able to fix it by replacing the tab washer with a torque arm, which would be possible as long as the hole of the tab washer sits proud of the motor. In the photo, it looks like it is sunk in.. I think the reason that happened is that you have a slight dimple in your drop-outs, so...

Nice one.

I don't want to disappoint you, but I'd take ant bet that the forks aren't tapered too.

When the nylon hear is stripped, the crank doesn't turn or it's jerky, normally. Another possibility is a faulty MOSFET. You'll have to test halls, MOSFETs and if nothing reveals itself, open the motor.