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No different case.

Pedals are threaded, it is the crank area assembly to the BB shaft that is sq tapered. No further advice was forwarded because vfr had covered it all in #2.

It appears 2 years is the max sentence for the crime, so he was handed the heaviest sentence possible as a consequence of the severity of the crime. Shame he can't be deported to Siberia for 10 years hard labour.

SLA chargers no good for lithium cells as they don't charge to 42v.

If the system is CANbus type or uses handshaking commands then the BMS may be buggered in which case it will never work.

My akm128c is quiet so the whine my be that a bit more grease needed inside, I opened mine when new too look and seem to remember adding more. You need to make a special tool to open the case which opens quite easily. You need a 50mm wide flat bar of a 2 or 3mm thick with a half round cut out...

Not charging fully runs the risk of cell imbalance as the balance function is bypassed, once they become unbalanced on closed system bikes you are then looking at a new battery as dealers can't open them.

2 years isn't much for killing someone by wreckless riding .

Could be a trunk cable issue or a blown battery fuse if you don't gat a good voltage reading. The motor doesn't cause a display to not work.

With deliveroo do you need to buy independent liability insurance ? If so a moped/illegal ebike may make that invalid esp if an accident occurs and the bike is investigated.

Bike age ?

A 'Y' lead to plug in between is quite easy to make up one needs two julets (one M/one F) with tails and a 3 pin block connector, wire the wires in matching pairs to the block connector and then connector then Y lead in between the controller /PAS Julets, probe the block connector for voltage...

The joys of Julet, one way of testing is to make up a special julet Y- lead with a sm block connector or similar on one of the Y ends. Then you can probe via the block connector. The other way to test is direct off the wires on the controller pcb, 5v between the gnd & 5v and then one should...

ebike battery cells won't last long if rapid charging and most BMS won't take rapid charging, even 5a is too much for most cells if you want decent life cycle. Don't forget most have only 4 or 5 cells in parallel unlike an EV. A spare battery or greater capacity may be best otherwise as Dave has...

This one is from Yose power on UK ebay, Yose are Chinese seller. You might find it on your Aus ebay or go direct to Yosepower.com. YOSE POWER Frog Electric Bicycle Battery 24V10Ah Li-ion E-bike Battery Seat Tube | eBay Plenty on Aliexpress as well just search for 24v frog battery.

You need to look for frog battery's Joe, you may get one the same or if not buy one with the mount. As long as it is 24v you can use any amp hour/capacity battery, just double check polarity is correct when connecting up. It look pretty much like a generic case/mount type used on various brands...

A good locksmith will cut you one from your remaining key. My wife and inlaws would charge less then £6 at their shop to cut one like that, they carry nearly every key blank one can think off. Find a proper old fashioned lock smith to get one cut, not your local shoe shop or Timpson cowboy...

For charging if you change the BMS for a generic one, try and replace the charge port or drill out and add a new panel mount charge port to the case to suit your own charger. DC5.5mm x 2.1mm are quite common type and all mine use that or a 5.5 x 2.5, handily one can get a 5.5 x 2.5 - 2.1 jack...

You simply bought the wrong controller with SM connectors, the Julet W/P connectors are available on KT's. For a display a KT lcd4 or lcd11 are smaller and discreet or lcd9 with incorporated thumb throttle. I have had lcd3 for several years without issue and find it very robust. Take your pic...

It's the post linked above in #2. Approx. 35/40% cost of a new bike minus a battery, though like any used item it is worth what ever someone is willing to pay or what you expect to get. But Flecc's guide is a starting point.