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KT controller with 3 speed display, the KT lcds are nicer and give you options to fine tune parameter's.

If you need phase connections then use MT60 60a rated or solder direct.

As vrf has mentioned a lot of bikes use only oem stuff which aren't available on the open market so as often we always recommend when issues arise to change everything or at least display and controller for either the very good KT or the Brain stuff, some use the Brainpower stuff on cheaper...

The lcd3 or lcd5 are probably the two to look at getting with a KT controller, if you want really neat and small the lcd4 is vey compact. LCD4 requires more button pressing to see data.

Julets whether 2, 3 5 5,6 pin use std pin out layout as they are factory moulded and will have a std sequence code for wiring. Your Pendleton controller and display likely are a different make then the KT so you will have to buy a new KT display as well as the controller, this guarantees...

You usually have to go bespoke and get decent cells, there are two or three UK battery makers.

Most likely, using incompatible parts means only some of the basic functions may work.

No if you want to utilise the power, the battery is underrated for the controller that's for sure if 30a is the continuous rating.

It depends as Flecc has mentioned how you phase the retirement in and what you do with your time. I have steadily reduced my hours from aged 49 (8 years ago) and now work a 2 or 3 day pm shift driving, my time otherwise is spent doing various other activities, diy, my ebikes, apiculture...

If any generic battery can be used then you can use what you like of the same voltage.

Your BBS will still likely only top out at about 20/21 mph.

Version number on the display or any instructions with said display. Set P5 /03 and see what the max watts are, divide that as vfr mentions by the battery voltage and hopefully it will be about 22.5a max or and inline watt meter.

New silverfish come with a new fitting plate/locking holder/bar. Always confirm any new plate/connectors are connected with correct polarity order other wise you will get an almighty fright and maybe damage.

We here of the odd failure but most users likely will not mention the unreliability. More failures are mentioned on the German forum according to Andy Matt who resides over there.

STOP !!! Ahmed you need to alter C5 current setting other wise you will shag the battery out, at 45a it will try and draw that from the battery and the cells/interconnectors will get very hot and could even short circuit. Short circuit means flames = fire and exploding battery. C5 needs setting...

The only wires a battery has are the out put wires to the controller, one Red & one Black. These are in your pic with the Blue bullet connectors. The three you show are controller to peripheral connector's, left Black Julet 8 pin is 1T4 trunk cable connector for lcd, throttle and brakes. The...

If already fitted then yes just buy a throttle with same number of wires, swap wire order to match or in most cases Black to Black, Red to Red and what ever the other two are together. If not sure post again to ask.

From past memory having looked at a KT pcb yes, the pcb i looked at also had a White wire wired on the reverse side.

Have ARW's been fitted and the tab facing the same direction ?

Firstly make sure the battery is charging and when full reads 41.5 - 42v by using a meter, don't go by any led's that may be on the display or battery but use a meter with actual voltage readout. If the battery is falling short on voltage then the reason for less range is likely to be found...