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The current is controlled by pulsing the mosfets at very high frequency. The longer the open pulse compared with the closed pulse, the more current comes through. It's called pulse width modulation (PWM), which is a common way to control DC current...

I think there must have been something wrong with your M16 motor, like the clutch wasn't disengaging. If you still have it, you can test that by hooking the chain off, then seeing how fast you can turn the crank with your hand. It should be completely free.

It depends whether you have it set to current control (P3=1) or speed control (P3=0). Under current control, it holds the current absolutely flat when pedalling below 15.5 mph and pedalling steadily. You can see here: Under speed control, the controller varies the current in an attempt to hold...

I'd try this...

and see whether you can feel that you have half the power too.

It's very simple. The battery wires are connected directly to each motor phase in both directions. The only thing stopping current from flowing is the 6 mosfets (one for each direction in each of three phases), which are basically electronic switches. The controller CPU opens the mosfets in...

The Bosch motor is actually a 24v one. If you connect a conventional ebike controller directly to the phase wires, it runs twice as fast. Bosch are doing something interesting with their control system. Have a look at Adweb's tests...

In practical terms, it's irrelevant. You should think in terms of energy coming out of the battery and going into the motor. It's easier to figure out what's happening at the battery end. I've always thought of phase currents as something we don't need to be interested in because they change so...

I remember from threads ages ago that there is some suspicion that these settings for current don't actually do anything. You need to measure independently to be sure, or maybe set it to something really low and see if you can feel the difference. When you solder the shunt, the whole system in...

The current is regulated by the controller, so it doesn't go up with the voltage, but the torque does. It's easier to think about it in terms of energy. The energy is going into the motor in pulses. The pulse has a width (time) and a height (voltage). The energy in each pulse is the width times...

8 weeks seems a long time. If you'd ordered it from Woosh, I think you'd have got it the next day. Is it 7 1/2 weeks for paperwork approval? I hope you get it soon anyway. Hopefully, you'll give us a full review after a week, then another one after a couple of months. Strangely, hardly anybody...

The 12 magnet discs often give problems. I've solved it before by pressing out every second magnet to convert it to a 6 magnet disc. The number of magnets doesn't make any noticeable difference in response or performance.

I'm no expert, but I think that might have something to do with the difference in range, when one has nearly 50% more charge in it than the other. The correctness police say that it's 468 watt-hours and 648 watt-hours capacity in each battery, not watts - just so nobody reading gets confused...

Didn't you spot the worn out rheocepter in the middle of the pcb? I wouldn't have put it back together in that condition. It could fail at any moment.

I'm not sure, but I think it has a standard 9 pin connector on the motor. Can you show us a photo? If it has the 9 pin one, you need to get the corresponding female one to use the ebike tester. you can buy motor leads on Ebay and cut the connector off to make a test lead.

These older Rocky mountains occasionally crop up on Ebay in various specs. I got a really good one once with everything Shimano XT for about £450. I've also seen some very over-priced. I think that they're always worth snapping up for conversion projects if you can get one for under£500. My...

Here's the bike after I first built it. The motor was soon after changed to a 36v 201 rpm Q128C (actually 260rpm, which goes to 338 rpm at 48v). Controller is a 48v 14A KT. Battery is 48v 11.6Ah. Everything came from Ebay, except the electrical stuff starting with the bare frame. Total cost at...

If you can't find any, these work quite well for most people, though I have to admit that it's a bit tight on me - both parts, but especially the lower part: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Christmas-Willy-Warmer/193245430861?hash=item2cfe53444d:g:u4YAAOSwRY1dm24s

Which magnet disc were you using? Was it a 12 magnet one?

That's right. When blue and red are joined, the blue powers the controller. If the voltage drops in that condition, the controller is faulty. if it doesn't, it's the LCD.