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Cold can and will reduce range.

The KT controllers are easy to open, solder a new XT90 with 12awg wires to the controller board. Job done. If you look on ebay or elsewhere you can buy XT90 with tails already soldered so half the job already done.

Let folks know your location and poss a link to see the batt specs of the actual cell used. Sanyo like a lot producers make a varying range of cells but assume it is the GA cell ?

Check your brake rotors as a lot will have 'resin' etched on them, if so you need resin or organic B01S pads. Resin/organic are softer pad material, pad materials differ and semi or full metal pads are available they quickly will glaze over and squeal like a pig giving little or no brake...

Remove the pads and show us we will be able to id the type used. A lot of brands use generic pad shapes and one of the common types used is the Shimano B01S pad.

To disable it unplug the cable at the controller. One can select P4/1 in the basic settings that only allows it's activation only after pedalling, but it doesn't disable it.

Fair enough.

The Freehub body may be like that of the AKM128C where the freebody is a fixed item to the face plate and will need a new face plate.

For the motor one can simply swap the internal hub core drive unit over. Once this is done if the fault is a hall sensor and not a wire fault one should be able to repair the hall to have a spare motor. In fact one could use the repaired motor to power another bike by spending £70 -£100 on a...

Controllers with wattage rating is quite meaningless, the current rating is all that matters. 15a for a 1kw hub motor is very low and ideally these hubs will be better with 25 or 30a controllers, the down of having higher current draw is one needs a far better battery with 40 or 50a continuous...

It's very good to see David again being very active on the forum when it comes to dealing with his customers, always one of the few owners/vendors who a presence on the forum. However I find it a bit discourteous that buyers/purchasers choose to use the open forum for the above when I think...

Balance charging is needed other wise one can't maintain balance, though your China cells don't seem to be balancing anyway. Good branded cells remain balanced. The Aliexp one you have linked to has balance otherwise what are those balance leads for ? Does your battery have an on/off switch ?

Ticking/clicking might be the rotor or could be spoke tension.

Yet they are happy to sell China made crank motors and electronics on so called premium bikes !!!!

That's why a lot of users like current control use, one can cycle at any speed without having pre set limits. One just selects the current one requires without having to have max power in every level like speed control.

Bosch better after care ? Try that when/if your bosch motor fails after a 2 years.

With the KT you are confusing the % levels as they are for the current supplied and not the speed supplied. With KT in current control mode one gets max speed in all 5 assist levels. I can't tell you what the speeds are in each level using speed control mode as I have neve tried it.

Exactly what assisted bikes are for and certainly not a kin to a natural bike ride feel.

Voltage reading should about 57.98v so something is a miss with a reading of 52.5v. If you take a voltage reading directly off the battery one should see an appropriate reading of 57.9v or so, if so the BMS must be faulty not to give a full reading on the discharge side.

Pluck the spokes like a guitar string they should give a telling taut note when tensioned, though the note from each side are often different as one side has more tension then the other with hub wheels. Any dull notes usually indicates an un-tensioned spoke. In general I have little or no issues...