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Yes, if you have a multi meter. One can measure the resistance on the phase wires to deduce whether one or more have failed. Easy to follow guide. https://ebikes.ca/documents/BlownMosfets.pdf

One can't get more amps by a setting button if the controller is already maxed out, one can try the shunt mod then adjust the setting for more amps.

The levels of response/action varies from county to county to at what length forces will act on.

You don't know it's the hub, one needs to rule out other faults first like battery and controller. The main controller fault will be blown fets to test. A guy in Germany over powered his SWKX (Bafang) and melted the nylon clutch gears at about 52v and 25a, he then replaced the nylon gears with...

Yes. The bike pic in the link looks ideal, though the mudguard will need cutting. Pics below show the drive mounted behind seat post, the rear stay sensor and two of the bike. One when used locally to work & back and the second for a days riding out.

The Woosh kits in comparison are a different kettle of fish. One has more control on power, hub motor reliability is well documented from lots of users. Most issues are often non hub ones. Batteries are larger so more range and capacity. Sensored kits are quite in use.

In all systems there are pros and cons. Pros for Revos. Lighter weight, easy to fit, no real tech or advanced skills needed (no wheel building or filing of drop outs). Only two cables to connect. Very basic no buttons or display to break or fiddle with. Good power boost to 25km/h, no settings...

These are marketed as local simple solutions to convert any bike with a 50mm plus gap between rear tyre and frame. the lightness will always have a range issue but 25miles for the 208wh is good for local use or a commute of <10/12mile distance. Any one can ride the system and a fit cyclist type...

Simply gives me ride details, time, odometer, spd avg & max, accent etc etc and quite good for £7. It replaced a Cateye model (I lost the head unit on a bump) that was over 3x more dearer, the cheap one is easier to use and a bit simpler in use...

My Revos uses a crank stay cadence type sensor, the led (green) picks up a rotation signal from the largest cassette sprocket (no magnets used). It measures the gap/speed of the teeth, I had teething issues with my one as the sensor kept slipping on the inside of the rear stay so drive was...

I have a few times documented/mentioned in threads I have this kit but have never bothered to much with posting any dedicated thread as they get totally slated, sometimes having an open mind never seems to occur when different systems are used. As we know there have been various ones over the...

UPP are quite prevalent on ES where the views on them are hit and miss on build quality, though later views seem to appear quality is getting better.

Which actual hub is used ? Most Bafang's even the so called weedy ones can take far more punishment then 48v/17a, though the motor winding speed needs to be right for towing. A 201rpm hub or less is ideal with lower stall speed and more low down torque. I tow a trailer locally (only a couple of...

One can test the throttle hall via the block connector, with power system on. 5v between Gnd & 5v. 1v between Gnd & sig & 4 - 5v when throttle is operated.

Unbelievable that 'David' the £100 supersub has come up short, what ever next. Connector does show 3 pins, the third is very faint in the shadows. Yep, three wires, a magnet and a hall sensor. If a hall is needed ss49e on ebay or if replacing throttle any half twist with three wires, solder...

More info is needed. Can you get a voltage output reading with a meter from the discharge pins ? Red indicates that the voltage is being measured or is low and green is battery fully charged or at required voltage, may be the Phylion takes a few milliseconds to register the voltage before...

E42 is motor hall failure so could even be a broken or dodgy hall wire connection. Disconnect all small hall wires if possible and see if it will work unsensored. Trying the non working hub wheel should pose no threat to the bike electronics as the power flow is one way unless regen is used.

I saw the post and was attempting to reply to it, then it disappeared. Strange happenings.

In the old thread the cells were stated as LG and battery as 14.5ah, do you know the actual cell it self ? LG M29 (2900mah) is one of the new type and is a replacement for the quite poor MG1 (2850mah). I would simplify your cutting out as suspect one, battery unable to supply the current...

The battery or controller is imv where the culprit lies. If the controller is set for current control then as well as working in PAS3, both PAS 1 & 2 will work as they draw less current. If the bike cuts out using PAS 4, PAS 5 & throttle at all times then it looks as if the battery simply...