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The pedal sensor has a magnet ring and a hall sensor arrangement, as each magnet passes the sensor, it gives a 5v pulse. Some of those devices have a little red LED that's on when the LCD switches on, then flashes when you pedal. If it's off, then there is no power to it. If it's on but doesn't...

Personally, I find undergloves worse than not using them. Air is a very good insulator. If you wear any gloves that are too tight, they cut down the blood supply and your hands get really cold. I guess undergloves work as long as you have over-size outer gloves and the undergloves are nice and...

Starting at the white one at the top. Speed sensor PAS Throttle Brake Brake LCD Hall sensors including motor speed sensor Light switch Horn switch Horn (battery voltage) light (battery voltage)and ground Blue pair cruise - leave disconnected Grey pair EABs - leave disconnected White pair speed...

At least he now knows where he can get spare parts from!

There's no controller setting that can make it behave like that. Is it a full-speed throttle or is it capped at 4mph?

What power level is selected on the LCD? Does the bike have a throttle?

Are you kidding or trolling? Spot the difference: Groove Go Woosh Rio motor They even both have the same green QC sticker. BTW. Your 36V 250W label looks highly suspicious. I wonder what's underneath it.

Would you be able to write me an essay on the Automation of Worldwide Dogmatics?

You buy the LCD with the controller as a pair.

There's a massive capacitor across the two battery terminals, so you'll always measure a dead short. That's why you get a spark too. You shouldn't connect the battery when it's switched on because you'll eventually burn away the terminals. You still haven't told us anything about how your bike...

Kalkhoff never made their own motors, except the acquired Daum Impulse motors. I guess you didn't bother to look at the photo of the actual motor that's in that bike, which looks surprisingly similar to yours. Are you, therefore, using Groove Go motors from Kalkhoff in your bikes?

The water normally goes in up the wire, not in through the top. If you put some butyl bath sealant around the joint, where the wire goes in, you should be OK. Probably, the warmth of the MOSFET inside it, heats up the air, expands it and pushes some out. When you switch off, the air cools down...

Just about any normal electric bike would meet your needs, including that one. They were great in 2008, but a bit weak by modern standards.

I tried one at the Bike Show and quite liked it. The torque sensor worked pretty well and much more proportional than the previous version.

I don't think they're anything special, just normal 1/1/8 integrated ahead ones. Drop your forks and see if what's on the bottom of the steerer is transferable. That's only 3 screws. maybe unclip the brake cable to let it drop a bit further.

There's nothing to stop you using the derailleur you already have to tension the chain. that's what I did when I converted to Nuvinci . I locked it in line with the sprocket using the end-stop adjuster screws so I could chuck the cable and shifter.

It means that you get a cheap thrill if you have a fat posterior. It is just bendy plastic. The video was from a camera positioned behind while the guy was riding. The seat was definitely doing something, but I'm not sure whether that's good or not. I'll let you know when/if it comes.

Grove Go is just a brand name for Xofo, Shengyi , Bafang or whatever it is. £250 is only in case the bespoke battery and control system are either useless or go wrong in the future sometime. To convert your bike would be about £500 to £700.

What's wrong with your bike? How did it go wrong? Is it a Carrera Vulcan E or a converted Vulcan?

You need 7 pins on the controller end to work a throttle, brakes and LCD, so that means you need a new controller, LCD, throttle and 1 into 4 cable. To guarantee compatibility, you need the brakes and PAS too. That lot will set you back about £100 because your type of controller is expensive...