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The new controller will be compatible with your throttle and pedal sensor, though you'll probably have to cut off connectors and solder the wires when the connectors don't match. The LCD3 gives access to all the settings, which is sometimes important.

Trust me, you don't want a pedal assist that gives power according to how fast you pedal. It sounds sort of logical, but when you try it, you realise why it's absolutely diabolical. The PSWP one has 5 levels of assist, which are power levels. On level one you get a small amount of assist as...

He's still riding his bike round Telford. I bumped into him at the NEC bike show on the Ebco stand.

I think you're right. The bloody Chinese will copy anything. They saw an online photo of that guy's genuine vintage moped and made exact replicas. They even copied his fake back light and vintage plastic bits. BTW, I would try putting any calcium carbide in that acetylene lamp. I think the LED...

Ask Woosh if they'll sell you one of theirs.

The block of 5 is the motor hall sensor wires. can you confirm that it was actually connected to a partner? I wouldn't buy a cheap controller like that. Instead, you can take the opportunity to make your bike into a really nice one for about £65 with one of these. You must buy an LCD and speed...

As you've probably found out by now, you don't need to calibrate it. It will spring to correct after a minute or so. You can change that with the P5 setting. The lower the number, the faster it responds. If you set it too low, it'll go up and down with how much power you're using. Around 13 is...

The gearbox won't work with a BBS** because the pedal shaft would be integrated, i.e. there will be no bottom bracket tube. instead it'll be a flat plate or more likely a couple of lugs on the frame. I guess the frames will look like a frame for a Bosch motor without the motor. In the patent...

E08 means that the throttle isn't in the zero position when you switch on the LCD, but it might also come if your throttle signal is out of range (less than 1v or greater than 4v). I'm pretty sure that E07 is a motor hall sensor fault. I would guess that the causes are related and probably due...

You can buy that exact bike from Alibaba for $999. https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Vintage-Style-Gasoline-Bike-Chopper-Bike_60655261589.html Full spec here on the manufacturers website. http://www.domlin.cn/product/bike/chopper-bike/766.html

It's a nice build. I bet the wheels took a while. It's made to look antique by fitting a load of antique accessories, but it's modern. They never had cheap Chinese band brakes in antique days, nor did they have plastic parts on the carbs, those fancy spark plug caps and modern toothed belt...

The LCD works independently from the controller. It doesn't care about nor see any wave forms. It's only a user interface with the controller. It communicates between you and the controller, sending and receiving information. The problem is that your KT LCD speaks a different language to your...

The high-speed version (328 rpm) overheats, but I never heard of your version (260 rpm) doing that. Aikema motors spin much faster internally, so you generally get better torque and efficiency for hill climbing than other types of hub motor.

Fit a crank motor. It'll work OK, just not as nice as a hub motor.

Did you do the self leaning procedure?

I think you have to press the M button to switch the Bafang one on. look at the explanation in the pictures.

I've converted exactly that bike before. It was very straight forward. I can't remember whether I used a Q85 or Q100 motor, though I think it was the Q100 and I spread the forks to fit it. A Q85 is identical apart from the width (85mm vs 100mm). I used an old laptop charger box for the...

We already have a thread about the LCD4. This one is about the Bafang LCD that looks the same as an LCD4, but is different because it's for a Bafang controller. You're going to confuse people into buying the wrong one.

You need a battery as well as the motor because your battery won't work with a Chinese motor unless you do some internal modifications.

Can you show your original display? There might be a way to restore some temporary functionality to your bike without the LCD if you can tell us the colour of all the wires connected to the original LCD.