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I can't see any problems in fitting any kit to that bike. You could use a front or rear hub-motor, but my preference would be for a rear one because you get less noise, better traction and better handling. Personally, I prefer 48v to 36v because it gives more torque for the same current, which...

It makes no difference where the fuse is, likewise the switch. Just put it somewhere where you can get to it. Is that an original key switch or some other type? If you want a switch on a battery, it's much better to switch off the discharge MOSFETs rather than the main power because you can use...

Which LCD is it?

The allen key only takes out the bolt. you need a crank-puller to get the chainwheel off. Make sure that the end that pushes on the square end of the bottom bracket spindle is the right size.

Make sure that the motor connector under the chainstay is pushed in all the way to the line.

Those A2B motors have the controller in the motor. It's a big job to rip it all out and wire in an external one. If you have the skills and motivation, it's probably worth doing. Here's a thread about it. I'd go up to 48V for a nice balance of speed, torque and efficiency...

When I was very young, we used to get a guy come round on a bike with a grinder on the back, who would sharpen knives and scissors. It wasn't you was it?

Normally, it would be directly across the battery wires . I guess it was added because voltage/current spikes were tripping the BMS over-current protection. Most controllers have substantial capacitors accross the battery wires for the same reason, so an additional one in the battery isn't needed.

I've never seen any voltage adjustment in any LCD. I've seen one LCD that showed the wrong voltage before, which showed about 5V higher than the actual voltage. That was solved with a new LCD. The LCDs that I studied measured the voltage with a simple divider that goes directly to the LCD's...

Oh no, they put the discs on backwards (according to YKW)!

Did you measure the battery's voltage o see ifthe LCD is reading correctly. You should measure it directly onthe battery terminals plus on the connector where the LCD plugs in. Be very careful not to short any pins in that connector when you're measuring.

The battery uses comms with the controller, so Jimmy might not be able to deal with that. If there's any problem with that circuit board (BMS), you'll have to get a genuine replacement if you can. When you speak with Jimmy, make sure that you mention that it has comms otherwise you might both be...

Hmmm! Mine is quicker to install, quicker to operate and cost me about £3. Why would anyone want to buy that one for £90??? Some people must be nuts.

Those Riese and Muller guys must have studied ugly bike design at university. Either that or they're French.

The brake levers will be fine. if you don't like them, you don't need to use them. brake cut-offs aren't necessary with that kit. I don't have them on mine. One more thing: There are two versions of the rear motor. One has the threadded boss for free-wheel gears and the other has the spline for...

The brake levers work with any cable brake system except if you have your gear shifters and brakes integrated into the same unit. The levers contain a simple 2-wire switch that goes on when you operate the brake. You can use your existing brakes and levers and fit your own switch wherever and...

Try shorting the wires directly. Maybe your switch is faulty. I've never heard of a controller where the brake cut-off didn't work. It has a direct connection to the CPU, so the software in the CPU would have to be faulty for it not to work, but then nothing would work. If that doesn't work...

That's complete ball-cox. Some controllers have EABS, but that's a completely different connector.

Did you do the self-learning procedure? Are your self-learning wires connected or not?

High and low refers to the brake signal. High is 5v and low is 0v. You should use the low signal one. Assuming it's a normal 2-wire one, one wire is the signal wire, which is connected directly to an input on the controller's CPU (protected by a resistor) andn is pulled up to 5v by a pull up...