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The exact ones in the link would probably be OK. What size are your screws?

Those quick action clamp bolts have very many other uses. When you park your bike in a bike rack, you can turn the bars to make more room for others and get your bike in and out more easily when there are overlaps. When you lo k your bike to a tree or lampost, it makes more room for pedestrians...

They're in post #3 above.

Try this one: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LD-Transparent-Crystal-Ball-Photography-Acrobatics-Show-Prop-Fortune-Decor-Ba/173984326499?var=472771764240&hash=item2882462363:m:meOVKQDjvm-eqS3cL4nHzKg

I would want a switch on my battery to switch it on and off! What's that got to do with connectors?

Your only hope is to get one directly from Powabyke or as a spare from a broken Powabyke. That connector is very rare and Powabyke throttles work backwards compared with normal ones (last one I checked). There are ways to modify a standard one if you're good at DIY stuff.

It would be easier for us advise you if you tell us about the rest of your electrical system.

If you simply leave it on the charger, the balancing system will most likely charge at a rate of about 30 - 100mA instead of the normal 2A. If it's now at 40V, you have something like 3Ah to go, which would be about 30 to 100 hours of continuous charging.

I tried most of them, and they all broke in weeks. Actually, the Halfords black one at £7 is pretty good. It's lasted 6 months so far and still going strong. The old vintage bells last a lifetime and they can be worth more than the bike they're on, like Lucas bells go for anywhere between £50...

Cable length should be no problem at all. Cut the connectors off because you don't need them and they only cause problems anyway, then add in or remove cable to get the correct length. Solder and heatshrink each joint. It's one or two joints per conductor depending whether you're lengthening or...

That's an interesting conversion. it's great to see the lubrication points. It brings back memories of squirting 3 in 1 into the hub and BB on my old BSA, which was the only maintenance it got. Yeah, those little ball bearing valves for it and the little tab that you had to lift on the Sturmey...

Getting a different motor won't change the power. As I said, the power comes from the controller. You can use any motor that has the 9-pin connector. They all work the same.

To get two bikes on a 2-bike rack is a bit of a faff. you have to put them opposite ways round, otherwise the handlebars clash. The pedals catch whichever way you do it. The quick action screws on the step allow you to turn the bars into the same plane as the wheel. with the pedals folded, it...

I've run 25 amps through one of those motors - no problem at all. I wouldn't recommend that in aluminium forks, though. Maybe even 20A is pushing it.

You can put the clamp on the seat tube, though you might need temporarily raise the seat for that to make room for the clamp if you have it set at the bottom. Folding pedals and quick action stem clamp bolts make it much more convenient to put your bikes on a 2-bike towbar rack. It's no faffing...

It's very unusual for motors to go faulty. Are you sure the fault is in the motor and not elsewhere? It's not the motor decides how much power you get, it's the motor controller.

You need the LCD to get access to all the settings. You can choose whichever one you want,though I think the LCD1 and LCD5 don't let you see so many settings - not that you need them all. 20 amps might cause you battery problems. Also, that's a lot of current for a small controller. you have to...

What are you saying is sealed? I'm talking about the motor controller, not the control panel. Look in the compartment on the front of the battery - the bit that stays behind when you remove the battery.

Put it in a toolbag under the seat, which is much easier.

There are plenty of good electric bikes for a lot less than £1000 on Ebay. A Gtech isn't going to be much good on hills unless you get the MTB one with gears at a knock down price.