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Not the same IEC connector only the third single pin on the connector is at right angle to the other two.

As in the case of the bike we speak of in this thread, the pin orientation is clear in the pics.

The motor has to be marked 250w to be legal. In your case as an ebike numpty I would opt for a ready built bike, have a look at Woosh bikes who are in Southend or see if Kudos cycles have any left they are in London.

At about half the price of very expensive new batteries for some bikes and at some 60% more capacity the cost would be well worth it. If one used logic the £300 re- cell would be equal to about an £800/£900+ proprietary battery from the maker if using the same capacity.

Option 3 is not possible for mid drive, Bosch, Yamaha or Shimano etc, etc. Generic batteries will not have the Canbus handshaking protocols.

Peter you are best to keep your Q's to the first thread you started, jumping to and fro between new and a very old thread will be confusing. You need to add a close up on the other thread the charger connection in pic #5.

I did likewise last night and only looked at pic #4 , I read the op's post literally and didn't bother with the others and should have done even though it was getting a bit late.

Usually gradually, one will notice range decreasing or battery capacity use is higher for a set distance. Typically the battery voltage will sag using high load esp up hill and the bike will cut out, try it in highest assist level and a steep hill to see if it is so. A new battery will likely be...

The charge point pic #5 (small jack socket) will need the centre pin checking to see if it is 2.1 or 2.5mm. I suspect the latter. A close up pic would be better to see and identify the type of connector.

Last night when I looked it was late and I only looked at pic #4 instead of all of them, the charger I posted first with IEC is wrong and is for Li. Any how it will not charge the batteries. As I mentioned the IEC style connection has one pin orientated differently so a std IEC shouldn't connect.

Just had a look at Pic #1 the IEC type is the discharge lead and it clearly shows the discharge IEC type lead at the top of the seat post. MK is correct the charge point looks to be a DC 5.5mm x 2.1mm or 2.5mm socket at the bottom of the battery. There are a few on ebay that should work but...

I use a small solar panel for my car, it plugs in to the cigarette lighter to trickle the battery. A diode is used to prevent reverse charge.

A Kalkhoff is ok as along as it doesn't have the impulse drive motor. A used bike can be a gamble as the battery is the most critical part of the bike, one needs to take the battery age into account.

You can get one cheaply on ebay, look for digital multimeter. If you need help in using one we can guide you in to taking the necessary readings.

3 pin kettle plug style, though the third pin orientation may be wrong. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/110-240V-36V-48V-1-8A-Battery-Intelligent-Charger-for-E-Scooter-E-Bike-EU-Plug/163754248626?hash=item26208389b2:g:zb4AAOSw6v1ecX-I

Gary do you have a meter to read voltage ? If not spend £5 and buy one first other wise we can't help much without them (voltage readings).

With a different controller & display, you may get an extra 1 mph or 3 or 4 mph however it will depend on the motor and its rpm output (winding speed). As vfr has mentioned be prepared for some wiring alterations/soldering.

Yes.

About 3 years ago I stopped and spoke with a guy on his ebike and he had an array of flexible solar panels laid out to charge his 36v batteries, from what I could tell he had a simple looking small inverter /charger and a watt meter to show wh input, voltage etc,etc. I forgot the details but he...

The speed is set in the programming of the controller pcb, playing with magnets won't increase speed.