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The disc is the PAS magnet disc which the sensor (hall) senses, as each magnet passing an on/off pulse is sensed. One can see two of the magnets exposed, if one or both are lost then you would feel a lapse in the PAS operation in use.

GO CYCLE.

Yep, I stand corrected. Too much going on in the little cells at the mo.

Has the chain ever come off on the inside to damage the disc ?

That's CANbus for you, as the saying goes they have you buy the balls. That's why us sensible ones don't buy into these extortionate bikes and keep to generic cheaper systems that do the same thing.

CANbus protocols will have to be an excact match, Bosch, Yamaha & Shimano etc,etc use CANbus but one can't mix and match. Even generic systems using digital input one can't usually mix and match display to controller but one can use any generic battery.

I expect David will at some stage comment.

Very few of these vendors actually say which brand of cell or cell identity is used, so one really never knows what is inside. For instance Insat/ebikebatteries .co.uk sell the Silverfish as the Whitebait and charge £325 for it, one can bet they will have very good cells in them as they have a...

Lcd's take a 5v feed direct from the battery via the controller. Some displays have there own internal back up battery.

Lossen the opposite side and see how the axle sits both sides and the wheel within the points of the drop out. The wheel torque shouldn't cause the frame to twist unless it is/was already cracked or damaged. Tbh just looking at that pic I would say the axle isn't sitting deep enough in the first...

https://wisperbikes.com/shop/wisper-works-eroad-bikes-2/ It's all in the link.

What took you so long then, with a spare motor at hand ?

But not literally :rolleyes:.

The aux battery is a for smart controller only as is say's so is CANbus.

The choice is yours to customise when placing an order, one can have either.

As vfr has said best to have first hand info from the horses mouth as to what has been done, rather then from the jockey who has been tinkering and relaying.

Wow, forward planning. Well done.

One only has to look at the bike specs, simply put yes everything bar the hub motor. Iwoc handle bar selector = CANbus compatible. Smart Motor controller = CANbus compatible. Smart inner battery = CANbus compatible. Recharge point = CANbus included. Extra range ext bottle battery = CANbus...

Tbh one would have been best to use Woosh for a kit.

One can adjust P1 once P2 is working correctly. P1 adjusts the odo reading to within about 0.1 - 0.3km/h or so. Set the display max speed to 25km/h, then use a GPS to see if the display odo reading is close. If display reading is quite close but under reads increase the P1 value by 1 each time...