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Bafang cst offers no drag, my one rides nicely with no power. The extra weight is noticeable issue on inclines.

If one buys a spare, don't try and store molly coddle it. Use it intandem/ rotation with your current battery or you may need both if you go on a longer ride. My 29e Dolphins are now into year seven.

But wholly truthful, the only option you have if you want to keep it is to rip out the crappy electronics and fit a KT electronics kit for £100. Then at least the bike will reliably work. If you don't like the answers ingnore them or find another forum.

Show us a pic, I have a C300 though it might not be the same.

Get a better bike.

I can tell you if I was unfriendly one would know about it.

First use a metre to confirm the chargers actual output Second one needs to try and measure the in frame batteries actual voltage via the discharge connection.

I suspect as an electrician CJ has the nous to remove any power supply first, in this case one is definitely teaching grandmother how to suck eggs.

One can if one wishes, the only difference if you don't is the results on the Red to phase will give a different reading. 1 or infinity to indicate all is well, a reading of zero would indicate a shorted fet.

Looks like we have a spammer or spam bot called stormystormy ?

Yes majority are 3 phase BLDC hubs now and sensored for quieter running.

14awg silicone wire 32a capable or 12awg 45a capable depends on the controller current, directly solder and heat shrink the joints.

Rubbish.

In most cases it is best to spend about £70 and replace controller & lcd with the popular user friendly KT model, though some soldering may be needed or swapping wire order on the odd connector. Non being to hard to do, advice and what goes to where is freely given on the forum. For a lesser...

Yep it is about 2mm shy of fully being connected.

Must be an Aikema hub bike then ? I believe they were used for a year or so.

Regarding vfr 's reply do not dismiss the motor cable connection out of hand, although held by cable ties it only needs a tug for the pins to disconnect. The final 1 - 2mm of connection can make the difference between working and not working correctly. Often the obvious can be the culprit as...

Did the bungee get caught up any where near where the motor cable exits the axle ?

There are many electronic companies in China that make controllers and ebike electronics, of which most are obscure or unheard of. Most of these electronics are OEM only and not available on the open market for the likes of us and you to buy. Kuenteng and Bafang are the two well known big...

The only thing in the hub motor to fail are the hall sensors. Your bike as said will have generic type controller etc so one shpuld be able to pin point the point of failure with a few simple tests/fault finding using a cheap testing meter. If you want to try we can lead you in how to.