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Use a meter and measure the battery voltage, the battery will have a +/- discharge just poke the meter's probes in each hole and get a reading having set the meter's dial to 200v dc, turn the dial to the left.

Looks like I was wrong, glad it is ok now. I was thinking it may have been a hall issue or wire issue after your phase wires melted.

The juddering is unlikely a battery fault is your hub sensored ?

Good work.

Carerra Suntour bikes are a bit of liability and hit and miss as to when the cut outs start or when they occur, the hub itself in all likelihood is quite bullet proof. The main issue appears to be the electronics, whether the latest models are any better we have to wait for owners to say. The...

Bullets on Phase connections are known to be problematic, heat causes contraction and for the plastic insulation to melt. One can try crimping the female end a tad for a tighter fit and then as you have, use the heat shrink to insulate. A couple of other options is to solder/fuse the ends...

One could also say that a lack of any bad reviews is also a good point.

Andy doesn't get it sometimes, all my generic China chargers don't supply any charge once the battery BMS ceases the charging or the charger set voltage is reached. They go from being slightly warm to cold. Even adjusting the pot voltage to 41v they stop charging. Andy along with a couple of...

They can't test the motors continuous wattage, all they can do is check for a a rating sticker and maybe test the assisted cut off point.

Bafang TS BB...

One can still epoxy/glue or tap the mag ring to the inner ring. One has to think outside of the box with ebike kits and adapt techniques to suit.

Sounds likely that the motor/stator isn't sitting in the hub body properly hence when the lid is fitted something is scraping.

Finally Bloody Hooray, excuse the language. As mentioned the bloke used the wrong sensors so weren't able to detect the motor magnets as they weren't bipolar.

Yes something has occurred and the hub axle it at 45 degrees in the drop outs, looks like it might be wedged hence not releasing one reason why anti rotation washers are fitted even on hub gears. Use a correct fitting spanner to turn the axle straight in the drop outs and it should come out easier.

The internal pack could be used on a kit bike remove the BMS and fit a generic one. At only 100 cycles the cells should be in good nick.

Cod Cod n chips all day long for me.

The three hall legs have a 5v, gnd and a signal contact. Put it another way looking from the hub center outwards the 5v will be the LH leg of the hall, middle diddle is Gnd and RH is signal/output.

Your pic link doesn't work so can't see the PAS set up. For Hollowtech BB it needs to be fitted on the RHS, you need the BZ10C sensor that is retained by the outer BB bearing case and a mag ring fixed to the inner ring. You can't fit a mag ring to the BB axle as there is usually no pace to do...

If the bike with the throttle kicks in/straight away when you switch it on then the most likely fault is a an intermittent wire fault/wire brake on the throttle wiring. Disconnect the throttle to prove the theory.

They are orientated so that the 5v from the outer face of the magnets is to the right and signal to the LHS. middle is gnd. Also you should be governed by the wiring order as it is (assuming it is correct). Dovetail in or the face with less surface area facing out.