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Tbh Halfrauds I would never take any bike to for repair. The throttle use will ask for max current power nearly all the time esp at lower speed, just be wary of steep inclines and make sure you select a lower gearing option With bad knees you need to have low gearing so as not to pressure them...

Not both together, throttle and PAS are independent of each other. Maybe you have made some changes which don't suit. As aked for list P & C parameters for us to look at. For independent throttle make sure P4 value is 0 & C4 is 0.

Once the self learn wires are connected and correct operation is synced one needs to switch off the bike and disconnect them to ensure the process is complete.

One only needs to use one brake cut out, I use the rear brake as it leaves the right hand/arm free for turning/indicating if needed and able to cut power if needed with the rear. Yes carefully remove the cable sensor from the lever, epoxy the sensor head to the front of the brake body ( I find...

If the bike is running and quietly without any untoward noises then there is not much more one can do, any fault finding will show up as within normal criteria until the fault actually develops, once the fault develops and is present then by testing one can narrow it down.

The heat caused in the wiring will be down to slow riding pulling high current more so in the wrong gear or more especially on hills, if the controller doesn't thermally shut down to heat then the wiring (phases) will get very hot to the point they will melt. I have had it occur once and it...

The sturdy Velcro strap solution is a good option, no extra 3d printing or hole drilling needed.

My touring ebike has Shimano combined hydraulic brakes/shifters, and find them excellent. No pressure on the thumbs and a simple notch up or down with the fingers to change gearing.

Having removed the front hub motor wheel have you checked the motor connector has been fully pushed back together properly all the way ?

My Sans and another China charger I have have/has an adjustable voltage pot, I have modified all my chargers for better air flow so they don't get remotely hot now and and extra casing hole so I can simply adjust/check the output with my meter. As I have 4 or 5 chargers I mark two with Tippex...

For that one you have to set C1 to 05, 06 or 07 to work. With that PAS you have to make sure that it isn't pinched tight between the crank arm and BB face, the outer body should remain still in use and the inner needs to freely rotate when the cranks turn.

If at the mo the bike is now working correctly with no juddering or fault then as vfr earlier mentioned there is nothing to test until it re -occurs. The battery isn't a likely cause of the juddering all it does is simply supply a voltage. You don't say what the new controller is, maybe it was...

The older cst kits were about 290rpm, since then It appears they may now be higher torque and about 205 rpm.

I repurpose the good cells for torch's or other 18650 gadgets, also I make up smaller 12v packs for which I have other uses for. Knackered or bad cells either I toss in a bucket of water for a few weeks and then bin them or use them as target practice with my nice air rifle with a scope sight...

Is/was the 40v at the discharge terminal or taken from the cell pack it self ?

Tried slime once total waste of money, if you want to add stuff to tubes forget it and go tubeless using Effafetto Caffelatex.

Vaseline is readily available, good for your hands as well.

Never seen a 24 pole disc, the KT's work best with 8 or 10 pole discs. 12 poles can be a bit troublesome any more they won't register. For parameters you need to list the P & C settings for us to look at. One shouldn't make too many changes without knowing how they affect the bike.

Use and ride it, if on a long run no harm will generally be caused by draining to LVC but be aware of voltage sag in higher assist level so better to use a lower assist to prevent the cut outs. Charge up to 80% but not 100% unless going o use it straight away, a final top up too 100% a few hours...

I was thinking initially after your phase wire issue that a mosfet may have failed but usually they either work or don't, that is why I said it wasn't a battery issue. We need to see a nice pic of all the controller connections to see if it is sensored, as vfr has indicated sync may be out and...