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it's recommended but your fork does not have postmount for disc brakes, that advice is not practical. Middle crank drive motors and geared hub motors all have internal gearbox and clutch. They don't have noticeable drag. On a lightweight bike, you don't even notice the extra weight, either...

what's wrong with your motor? is it just a mechanical fault (such as one way ballbearings slip for example) or electrical?

hello Keterick, where about do you live? if you are not too far from Southend, bring your bike in to my shop, I'll try to work out a solution for you.

about £40 unless the OP finds the old wheel.

they all work very well, if you just want to flatten the hills. If you don't have any preference, then fit a hub kit because it's £50-£100 cheaper. If you want a ride as near to normal bike as possible, then I would suggest the TSDZ2 kit...

I asked because the C1 kit is particularly easy to fit. Have you got any preference for crank drive or hub motor? preference for torque sensor like Bosch bikes?

will you do the conversion yourself?

that's good news! meaning there will be a deal to keep things like they are.

the Rio MTB has Prowheel GXP Road (BC1.37x24T road) bottom bracket. You may need to buy a new set of ballbearings. Read the inscription on the side of the ballbearings to be sure. http://pro-wheel.com/main/?product=integrated-tt-road-bb You can buy them on the net or at any cycle shop but do...

Your point is well argued. However, the controller is inside that special bottle. If that has gone wrong or goes wrong in the near future, the investment in a new battery would go to waste. Same goes for that 12 year old motor. I must say I have a lot of respect for the guy who designed that C1...

that is plausible, although the withdrawal treaty must be lodged with the UN and BJ is supposed to keep his side of the bargain.

his front hub motor may have wrong voltage, or rusted or too small for his weight. I reckon he should upgrade the whole lot.

the 250W is only nominal, a minimum guarantee that the motor won't overheat at that level of output. Ideally, choose an 80NM and above crank motor or a rear hub motor of 50NM or above to take into account of your weight. Your wife does not need the same amount of assistance, so 60NM+ crank drive...

Both bikes are easy to convert - aluminium frame, plenty of space inside the triangle for a standard downtube battery (36cm x 10cm). Take your time to assess your objectives: would you take on mountain roads? what kind of range is your maximum ride in a day? then choose a motor and battery to match.

can you post some pictures of your bike?

Your Carrera Vengeance E has a rear hub Suntour motor, not Bafang. If t's still under warranty, just ask Halfords to help you. The cause is usually water ingress, rusting the ballbearings.

I spent half and hour filing down the cableguide to about 4mm tall. It's a pita and it still sticks a bit. I may make a replacement cableguide for the TSDZ2 when I have time. For the moment, just remove the derailleur's outer cable and replace it with a new one, running over the bottom bracket...

The 48V TSDZ2 has 30% more torque than the more polular 36V TSDZ2. The 48V TSDZ2 is good for up to about 22st.

I would recommend a road legal Tongsheng TSDZ2 kit. It's straightforward to fit, only one cable running from the motor to the LCD. https://wooshbikes.co.uk/cart/#/product/uid-207-tsdz2-12ah/tsdz2-cd-kit-48v-12ah Here is my Giant fitted with the TSDZ2:

I am surprised that you like that style. Straight chunky profile, plastered with colourful go faster stripe stickers all over. It's loud and so last decade. I've been there myself, if you don't mind me saying so. How about you recommending buying local for service? The ecolo is based in the...