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You need to show us pictures of your tandem. There are lots of potential incompatibility issues.

You didn’t me tion whether you checked whether the signal wire switches when you move the pedal slowly.

You need thinner spokes on the same rim, not thicker ones. They broke due to metal fatigue, not because they weren't strong enough. you'll see that they all broke at the elbows, not in the middle. You should change to 14 gauge (2mm) spokes which are more elastic, so you don't get the massive...

I think a second battery is around £400, which makes £1165 for the bike with an additional battery, which will give you about 10Ah. That's a good price considering that it has high quality components and hydraulic brakes. 10Ah is still a bit low by modern standards, but has the advantage of...

Just to make sure you understand, there are two types of cassette gears. 1. Freewheel gears screw onto a boss on the hub. Normally 7 speeds is the max, but can go to 8 speed with a bit of jiggery pokery. 2. Freehub gears, also known as cassette gears, slide onto a spline on the hub. Normally 8...

The Gtech Ascent is a nice bike, just let down by rubbish range.

You don't seem to understand what pushing it hard means. The current depends on two things: 1. How much the controller allows. 2. How fast you turn the crank. At a certain point of crank speed, the current reduces below what the controller allows. Say you have a cadence of 80, you could use a...

because you don't have to keep changing gear, so you can keep your fingers together in a warm mit.

It looks quite a neat bike. You get the same power in each level on the control panel, but you get a different cut-off speed instead. Is it 24V or 36V? 24V is often a bit weedy. The need to get up to 6mph is a bit weird. I've never heard of that before. Some motor controllers have a big delay...

It's not as simple as that. some of those bikes have hydraulic brakes and others don't. You get different quality forks and gear systems. Some bikes handle well and some don't.

A hub motor is much better for commuting, especially in winter when you have cold hands and hypothermia sets in. Also, the running costs will be much lower as your chain and sprockets would last about 5 times as long.

When you twist the motor wires, you can get a short between the motor phase wires and one of the hall wires, which will blitz the CPU in your controller. It can also wipe out every other 5v device in your system, like PAS, throttle and motor halls. Start with the motor. With everything powered...

None of what you say makes sense. You're thinking of building a new bigger, heavier, more expensive battery because you're worried that using your present one to its full capability might shorten its life by a few charges! I used to do a 30 mile hilly commute with an 8 Ah battery and a motor...

If you shout back, "Who am I cheating?", it normally shuts them up.

It's because the motor acts as a generator when it turns. If you run your bike at full speed with the wheel off the ground, the speed it reaches will be the speed that it generates the same voltage as the battery. You can then use ratios to work out what voltage you generate at 30 mph. Say max...

It shouldn't switch on and off. It should stay green in CV mode, when it goes red, it means CC mode, which shouldn't happen when balancing. It's a sign that one cell is substantially higher than the others. The charger goes to CV mode when the voltage is close, so to be in CC mode, the overall...

Did you check to see if it does that with the battery switched off now that you've adjusted the battery? The balancing is basically an overflow system. If the charge MOSFET is open and the charger connected, then you can't stop it from working. If the charge MOSFET is closed, no charging can...

You can't see any balancing mode from the outside unless you have a BMS with LEDs that light up when the bleed resistors are open, like the old Ping batteries. The only way you can tell with yours is to put your finger across the bleed resistors when the battery is fully-charged and the charger...

Do you know how to program microprocessors through a TTL lead? Are you prepared to run the risk of bricking your controller? We need someone to do some pioneer work.

It's also on Ebay and, IIRC, Topbike kit. About 5 years ago, Aikema showed a really neat and much smaller crank-drive kit. I was on their mailing list about it, but only ever got one email about it. About a year after, I kept sending them emails asking when it would be ready, but they stopped...