Search results

These are the connectors that you cab get from Ebay. https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=JST-SM+3-Pin+2.5mm&_sacat=0 You have a choice on how to fix it. You can buy the connector block and pins, then use thin pliers to crimp the pins to the wires and insert into...

Check for a dirty connector in the drive unit too.

They nearly always give good discounts on bank holiday weekends. The next one is in August.

40.5V is too high for the battery's BMS to cut off. The BMS will cut when the first cell reaches 2.9V. That would mean that the highest voltage that could happen would be 9 x 4.2V and 1 x 2.9V, i.e hot off the charger at 40.7V ( but OP has confirmed 42V hot off the charger). As soon as the...

How much did it cost? That's the important bit!

Schwalbe Marathon Plus are the de facto puncture proof tyres.

It's difficult to tell from your weird photo, but it looks like the narrow one. Look at this one and check the dimensions. the length doesn't matter because it comes with its own lock strip. you might have to drill holes in the lock strip to line up with your frame fixing points...

You're probably thinking of the Xiongda YTW-06 that you can buy directly from Xiongda. You have to buy the special controller with it, and it's best to buy the pedal sensor and throttle with them because everything from Xiongda is pretty cheap. You can only buy the bare motor, so you have to...

It sounds to me like you're using a 48v controller or have your controller set to a 48v battery with a 40v lvc instead of a 36v battery with a 30v lvc.

Blue wires could be speed restriction, throttle restriction, self-learning (detect hall and phase sequence in a new motor) or cruise control (dangerous without brake switches). In all cases, leave them disconnected for now.

Yes. the Tsdz2 has an internal controller, so everything is plug and play.

Gear normally means throttle in Chinglish, so it must be an option to disable the throttle. I can remember an early installation I did, where there was some strangeness in the way the throttle and pedal assist worked, but I can't remember the details. The only thing I can remember is fixing it...

Good point. Perhaps OP can make it a bit clearer what he's thinking about.

P07 is not right. It's the number of speed signal magnets. Your description is correct when using the motor timing hall sensors for the speed signal, which is OK for direct drive motors, but geared motors will show zero speed when free-wheeling. Geared hub-motors either have internal speed...

The LCD5 is compatible with KT controllers. You should always buy controllers and LCDs as a matched pair.

You'll know whether you need a brake sensor when you start riding the bike. Some older bike's motors run for about two seconds after you stop pedalling, which is not very convenient when you want to slow down to go round a corner. You only need one brake switch. If there are two, they're in...

Those type batteries are not very convenient. The connector screws on and is awkward to access. Then, after some time, the wires get damaged inside the connector and short out. None of that is a problem if you never remove the battery. Also, that case design is not very waterproof depending on...

Crank motors have the advantage that they can produce good power over a large range of speeds because of the gears. Efficiency is much more complicated because of the number of variables that contribute to it.

That's a good question. The only documented test was done by a German bike magazine, where they tested a bunch of Ebikes by seeing how far they'd run up a steep mountain. I can't remember all the bikes involved, but there was a mk1 Bosch, Kalkhoff crank drive, KTM hub-drive and Bionx hub-drive...

This come up from time to time, but it's actually a fallacy. Several tests have been done, and the results indicate that there's not a lot in it, but if anything, hub-motors are more efficient. Like everything, the external conditions have much more effect than the technology and processes...