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If the motor is OK, you can fix the rim. heat it up with a blow torch to nearly red hot. that will soften it so that you can gently tap it back into shape. it will stay soft even after it cools down, but when you tap it, it'll return to hard again, so go through an iterative process of heating...

Twisted wires and those terminal blocks are OK for houshold stuff, but copper oxidises in the conditions of riding, so it needs some sort of protection, like nickel plating. It might be OK at first, but could/would soon give you all sorts of problems, when the copper starts to disintegrate...

Let's make it simple - one step at a time. Don't jump to any conclusions. Step 1. Measure the voltage with a voltmeter between the two terminals at the bottom.

Can you post some pictures of what you have?

Hmmmm! I rest my case.

No. The pedal sensor will give you maximum power when you go up a hill, so the throttle wouldn't do anything when you're pedalling. You set the power level from 0 to 5 with a switch attached to the LCD. Whenever you pedal, you get the power you select. The throttle will work on its own up to 4...

All correct, but OP is talking about OEM bikes. that's just going to confuse him. "Woosh bikes are configured pedal first for full throttle." I didn't know about that. thanks.

Most bike shops and even the manufacturers haven't got a clue, neither have the Chinese. When i met the Volt guys a few years ago, they didn't even know how to derestrict their bikes.

I'll leave you to it then while I go away and sulk.

That's the easiest solution and guaranteed to work. PCB= Printed Circuit Board.

I've never seen one where you have to pedal first. I think you're mistaken. Instead, they're all limited to 4 mph. Actually, what I said isn't true. There was that Storck Raddar thing that caused a bust-up on the forum about 8 years ago. It had a throttle that only worked when you pedalled. And...

They're all certified bikes, so none of the throttles go past 4 mph, but all of them can be unofficially unlocked, so whatever you do, do not put any money down until you've got the info on how to unlock it. All of them work from a standstill.

Photo please. There are loads of different bottle batteries.

I think it'll be OK at 36v. It looks like a Q85 motor. The 180w is just a label for legal requirements and has no bearing on what it can actually handle. Ideally, you need a 36v controller to go with the battery, because your 24v one will have the wrong low voltage cut-off. Most 24v controllers...

22 amps one should be Ok at that speed.

If you paid £30 in total, it's still a bargain. A replacement from a UK supplier would be considerably more.

I think that the 325 rpm motor will be the best for what you want. Don't worry about whether it says 350w or 500w in the listing. That's completely irrelevant and misleading.

Leaving a battery for a few months shouldn't do any harm, so I doubt that'there will be anything major wrong with it. The only way to discover the fault is to do some tests with a voltmeter. The control panel gets its power directly from the battery, so if it doesn't light up, there must be an...

A manual won't help. The device is completely electronic using tactile switches as inputs to a CPU. All the changes to the display are done by the CPU. At the same time as it changes the power level in the display, it sends an instruction to the CPU in the motor controller to change the power...

It's not the lack of strength that makes them break. It's metal fatigue. When you have inelastic (strong) spokes, you get more difference in tension between those at the top of the wheel and those at the bottom when you have weight on the wheel. Basically, when you sit on the bike, your weight...