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That's a real shame because I don't help people that don't help people with illegal electric bikes. I have to put you on my block list now, which was previously empty.

You'll get your referendum in 4 weeks time. Unfortunately, you won't get the result you hope for. The Europe project is finished. They'll have to have a rethink of what it's all about, so Brexit will ultimately be a non-event.

It could be blown components in your controller. You'll need a multi-meter to test that, but it could still be something simple like dirty or loose connectors. If you have the 9 pin connectors half way up the fork, make sure it's in all the way to the line.

You probably won't be able to get one of those, but you can use any motor you want. What connector/s are on the end of the cable?

It sounds like a blown MOSFET in the controller to me. have you got a wattmeter or ammeter to measure the current?

Look at the key phrase "according to individuals ". Any phrase like that or "it was reported that " or "someone said" means that what follows is most likely a lie. You'll see that sort of thing in the press all the time when they're trying to convince thickos to follow the press bias. If it were...

No type of grease is going to solve your electrical problem.

Not really. It's the control system that dictates how much power comes out of the battery.

The thing that makes me the most suspicious is that they've never been back in 50 years. That's incredibly long in this age of technical advancement. From the time Kennedy said that they would go to the time they actually went was only a few years, when the best computers had less computing...

I agree. All we know is that things don't add up. That's what interests me.

can we trust the main stream media when it comes to Brexit? It makes me really suspicious when there doesn't seem to be any coverage of this one. Did anybody hear about it?

Are you OK with lacing your own wheel?

I think you're misunderstanding something. The car's torque is measured at the crank at thousands of RPM. The torque at the wheels is substantially higher. That BH bike has a hub-motor, so the torque is measured at the wheel. At 7mph, the car's wheel turns at approximately 50 rpm. Let's say the...

The motor runs with 48V, so straigh away, it has a 33% advantage over a 36V one. It looks like a fair sized geared motor. I have similar motors at 48V that can put out around 100Nm, but they have a 5:1 internal ratio. Modern motors tend to have larger reduction ratios, so with 8:1 or 12:1, 140Nm...

Noise from the motor is 9 times out of 10 caused by an electrical fault (pulse timing), not a mechanical one even though it feels and sounds like a mechanical issue. Before taking your wheel off, you should provide more information about the type of noise and the circumstances around it. Which...

That depends a lot on whether you have your controller set to use power (current) control or speed control on the PAS (P3 parameter 1 or 0). With P3 set to 1 and the LCD set to level 1, your controller gives about 60W to the motor regardless of any external conditions. In that state, the faster...

Lets assume that's correct. KN are the same on the Earth as the Moon, since force is independent of gravity. 16KN is about the weight of a family car. Can you now imagine the blast you'd need out of the bottom of your car to make it hover 10ft in the air? How much sand or dust do you think would...

A Woosh XF08 CST rear cassette motor kit will give you what you want or a Yose Power cassette motor kit. I'm assuming that you have 700c wheels. Both have a choice of batteries to suit. http://wooshbikes.co.uk/?hubkits...

It makes no difference if you have the switch in the controller or the battery. When the switch is off, the battery is isolated.

With a hub motor, and the controller set to any one level, the faster you go, the less battery you use, so select level 1 and pedal as hard as you can if you want your bike to go a long way before the battery goes flat. I'm assuming that you have the controller set to current control, which...