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It sounds like it does limit current as you say at 20kph the current is near half, you may not be able to adjust it via the display but it does via internal programming. The controller uses current control.

The planet gears can be bought separately and usually held in place with a circlip, overall diameter, inner diameter, thickness and teeth count are required. Nylon or steel are available if you search carefully.

Where do you live ?

IMHE prediction is that the UK will see 3k fatalities per day by end of April before coming down, we are not there yet but the numbers are rising to nearly 1k per day. Whether the predictions are accurate we will not know until we get to the end of August, maybe their prediction is that unlike...

Not a personal dig but why do a lot of forum members spell my name incorrectly ? My name is spelt with an 'a' and not an 'i' . Quite often the 'a' is omitted and 'i' is inserted or a few add a ' t' between the 'l' & 'h'.

Only the planet gears which are nylon and run on the casing's metal sun gear is lubed, some hubs have sparse lubing so you need to open it to see if it needs a tad more grease. Dark moly grease is ok to use.

The battery is 24v nominal so 27v equates to 3.85v ish per cell group which there are seven 7 x 3.85 = 27, if all seven cell groups are equal then your battery is balanced. If one cell group is unbalanced and much lower then the others it will likely cause the issue you are having. A well...

Flecc is old enough and wise enough to make his own judgement and has often weighed his thought process on life and how he has been practically accident free, so respect to him. According to the Institute for Health metrics and Evaluation in Seattle they predict the UK to be the worst hit EU...

Good that's fine, the motor is hall sensored with speed sensor as well, the KT you linked is compatible for Hall sensor hubs.

A load can be simulated by lifting the wheel off the ground and applying the brake to a point that the wheel doesn't quite stop, measuring current or watts at this point will indicate the heavy load applied.

Hubs don't often cause issues, if it rides ok on level ground then it is ok. The battery is the likely issue though without the bike in front of one we can only take punt at the issue, the power issue up gradients tends to lend it way to being a battery issue and one not in it's best youth.

Likely an issue with the controller pcb board, I'm not a fan at all of any in built controller.

How many wires are there in your motor cable ?

KT's are set by default as current control but they have a setting if you wish to change to a speed setting, current control is the preferred use for most people unless one is speedster.

Depends on the bikes usage, my commute /errand bike has fixed lights running off the battery, I never have to worry about charging or forgetting to have lights.

The ultimate power output is about 230w at the wheel at max current. 12a x 24 = 288w max output from the controller - inefficiency loss of approx 20% watts for the hub and you have about 230w max at the wheel. You should feel the 230w helping out but sounds possibly like the battery isn't...

The cheaper and more expensive ones don't visually look different but the operation is certainly different. If you want more control over the current supplied for a more user friendly experience then you have to go with a current control controller. The lcd1 is very basic ideally the lcd3, 4, 5...

The led 880 will only work with a KT controller, they have to be matched programming/software wise. Five wire displays use two way comm's, if you only had a 4 wire display then you would have been all right. Your electronics are by Nanjing electronics company known as Yuan Lang, an obscure not...

The cheap £28 controller kits are crap and much the same as you will already have, they are speed controllers which mean each PAS level has a differing speed limit but you get max current all the time which means max power all the time. What you need is a current control controller, these give...

If upping the voltage you need to know if the lcd will also work on that voltage. Yes more voltage means less current is required, a lot depends on the battery continuous rating and the hub rating used. D/D hubs don't have the planetary nylon gears of geared hubs so can take abuse, with geared...