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That is ok the anomaly of not reading 42v is likely the DVM % tolerance then, they can be out by easily 0.5v with the basic cheaper models most of us use. If you have friends or know someone with a meter you can compare voltage readings, but is nothing to overly worry about.

Generally I'm all for individuals in trying to fault find electronics, even including batteries but only if they feel capable in doing so. Even someone less so capable can quite easily carry out simple tests/checks if they follow good guidance and practices.

We need to know if it is hub or mid drive and the controller make it is a hub.

As long as any cell group hasn't dropped below 2v then the battery is recoverable, but 24.4v doesn't bode too well. As an exercise it is worthwhile to check out esp if you have time on your hands. Replacing cells isn't really an option unless you have a battery spot welder, soldering cells is a...

The burn and die scenario promoted by some are usually isolated cases and down to misuse often during charging or discharging, the difference between auto and ebike batteries are vastly different. Method and care in undertaking the process is needed making sure no metal objects are near the...

Fitting the sensor/magnet then to the pedal/crank was I believe an attempt to trick the motor speed so as to go faster. SW has said afaik that it doesn't work and then pulls up an error code. A dongle like the Badass about £130 would have been easier and cheaper in the long run.

Mg1 not one of LG's best cells.

Mid drive have their own inbuilt controller , it will work with a geared hub 500w or 800w one, Either Bafang hub or AKM hub who have a 800w geared hub.

Hallo have always been quite expensive imho so have a look on Aliexpress first for price comparison, yes it is a KT controller.

The controller wiring should be Red/+ & Black/- . Fuse wise 20a/25a should be the most you need for a 15/+1a current draw. most ebike battery/controller wiring should be capable of 30a current.

You probably have a dead cell group with a 24.4v reading, min reading should be 30v - 32v. The BMS will not allow charging. To confirm the fault the battery needs to be opened and ten cell group voltage readings taken to see how bad they are, as it stands the battery is useless so opening up...

Most of the Silverfish batteries should fit just look at the dimensions to compare with yours, each battery usually comes with a new fitting kit so you can replace like for like to know the battery will fit and wire the fitting correctly. With any battery you shouldn't take it for granted that...

41.6/41.7 is fine and denotes a pretty well balanced battery, it might be that over several charges they both will eventually both balance out perfectly. What does the meter say when you test the chargers voltage via the charge connector. As mentioned 0.5v might be the error reading of the...

The BMS determines if the charger is allowed to deliver current for the charge to take place, if a battery group is below 3.1v - 3.2v then no charge will take place because the BMS registers a fault. The charger simply can't supply any current because the BMS say's NO. If a sense wire comes a...

The PAS level %'s I mentioned are preset, you can't change them you get the approx % in each PAS level based on the max current the controller is set for. For more control then you will need the CA. If you get the KT you can dial down the current using C5 setting so if you get a 30a/40a version...

Thought cheap kits use cheap crappy controller systems with little control, I doubt a KT will be much better a lot of people will use a CA to deliver the power. Tbh the D/D hubs need a good battery and current to get the best out of them, running at low current isn't of much use. The KT with...

Important double check the battery and bikes polarity contacts are correct and match up, check the battery polarity by using a meter. If polarity is at all reversed the fuse will instantly blow. + must go to + & - must go to -. Make sure the battery is switched off before connecting. What size...

From your description max power in all PAS levels is speed control, each PAS gives max current but a differing max speed in each PAS level. The KT gives you the option of speed control, the default setting is current control. In each PAS level you get a differing current input with max speed in...

KT are made by Keunteng electronics ,China. They are one of the best after market readily available controllers which are easy to set up with current values ranging from 12a - 40a depending on the model bought. For reliable higher current models you need the 9 or 12 fet models, controller and...

It is a Lishui controller LSW831, the three pin wire connector should be the throttle then and wire order as I mentioned. But do check the Black/red with a meter to confirm there is polarity between them of 5v. I thought it might be Lishui as the white data plug is usually a give away.