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You could rule out the controller mosfets being at fault first by simply carrying out the phase wire checks, a faulty controller will cut all power and switch off the display until fets cool down then act as normal until heat raises it head again. I have had this twice with 6 fet controllers and...

Have you yet checked the charger out put with a meter and if it is 71.4v ? This is what I eluded to in #8, 4.1v will cause cells to go out of balance as their is nothing in place to balance them. In the long run you will create more issues then there is to solve, the bms carries out balancing...

Spot welding copper 0.1 or 0.2mm is near impossible for the diyer though it appears that you can use spot nickel over thin copper and the process works like a sandwich method. I haven't tried it out as I have no 0.1mm copper, ES member rojitor in Spain has tried it using his Korean mini welder...

If this guy is now testing the water now several weeks have passed by he likely will have a few more boxes stashed somewhere. Any nicked bike new or used with no battery or charger is a give away that they aren't cosher, often it is just no charger.

I assume you have double checked that your kit controller has an outlet for a pas sensor ? On one of my triples I removed the Granny ring to fit the magnet disc, obviously there is somewhere it was able to fix too. The actual sensor is not the issue as that will fit behind the hollowtech BB...

You will find it hard to get a 48v marked motor unless you buy from Woosh.

Spot welding is necessary. Your idea is correct but not the right way unless you want them to short out. The side of the can is a v- under the thin shrink wrap, shrink wrap easily melts so doesn't offer much insulation. Lay 5 cells next to each other v- to v + /top and tailing them, spot the...

An outside chance of a fault is the actual cell contact with nickel. Peeling back the red protective cell covering to look at the connections to see if any welds have separated, not always evident use a pointed wooden kebab skewer to place gentle lift pressure between cell and nickel. Any poor...

Cell groups are near perfick not much issue there with imbalance unless that last one collapses, try and apply a load and monitor it to see what happens but would have expect a greater voltage variation of maybe more then 0.3v. Look at the actual switch it self place your probes on the...

The current pot will be one of the pair by the shunt and the voltage next to the CAP at C1.

Argh thanks for clarifying , I misunderstood your intentions. I regularly check my chargers for drifting and adjust the V pot if need be. I had a pair of 36v Sans that both drifted to 42.6v and brought them back down to 42v.

Cells need mechanical contact and not just physical contact to prevent intermittent contact.

Tweaking charge cut off voltage will lead to what you are experiencing currently unless a smart bms (uart/Bluetooth) is fitted, std bms use top balance when voltage is near the end with less then 5% to go ( 4.15 - 4.2v per cell group).

Any battery inserted will need added protection and rigidity to prevent rubbing and shorting of cells so clearance has to be considered, flexing/movement will lead to cells becoming disconnected from series connections.

Rule out a switch problem first as it could be an easy fix, check solder contacts and switch continuation with the dvm whilst switching to see if there is an intermittent fault with said switch.

Some sellers list charge voltage as nominal for battery or as max voltage. You can check the charger output voltage if it is 71.4v then it should be fine and any fault is likely within the pack.

My first bbs01 controller fried with stock settings, I never even changed any settings. Died 1630 miles second controller I changed on PC, died 1320 miles. Did try an ext kt controller but no joy may give it another try when I find time.

They are to fragile Cwah as you know the controllers are very small and heat is an issue. You could try a TDSZ but most I doubt will last for your usage, has issue with nylon gear though you can buy a brass one to swap out = more hassle. D/D motor you know well and are cheap, less to go wrong.

Both appear to use 29E's doing the math's, ok as long as you don't derestrict the speed the cells are good if treated well. They don't like to be abused by to much current 15a is plenty in 4p config/11.6ah. YSB is the trusted seller or...

Check operation of brake lever if cut outs are fitted/used.