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With some people there is a fear that batteries catch fire, the same can be said of your phone, tablet, pc and even vacuum cleaner etc etc, do you keep them out side !!! And what are the instructions ?

Problem is vehicles drivers can't anticipate speed very well especially a bicycle travelling at speed exception may be a lycra lout. I have my assist set to 20mph and a lot of cars just can't anticipate /judge my speed as I approach junctions, the main issue here is they are not willing to give...

P2 is usually 1 or 6. P1 value if changed dramatically will give an incorrect cut off assist speed.

List your parameter settings so they can be looked at, an obvious setting may be detected.

If Dobbler doesn't know if it works then I would not bother as well, esp as we can see that the motor wire is badly twisted. It is likely that the hub did twist out of the drop outs and why it looks bad. As vfr says if you had spare kit knocking about then no cost but, if it is not known then...

For cells either Nkon or use ES member Tumich who sells top grade recycled cells. https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=61608 Don't contact him via the thread above but PM him for response and business other wise he will not likely reply.

Can't help with the hub producer's name , though you have what appears to be a sinewave geared hub for freewheels. The 5 thin motor wires are sensor wires and the three thicker ones phase wires, it has no internal speed sensor so you would need to wire in a simple exterior one with spoke...

PAS 1 gives approx. 13% of set current. PAS 2 approx. 20%. PAS 3 approx. 33%. PAS4 approx. 50%. PAS 5 100%.

Xena has lots of friends.

You have to remove a good spoke to measure it's length to get it right. Then buy from Ryan builds wheels on his ebay store, but no use going down that route if you have no wheel building skills as you can mess up the wheel by not tensioning them correctly or lacing the spoke correctly...

We need to know which hub motor you are using, the P1 setting you have is for a D/D heavy black hub motor. Can you show a link or pic of your motor ? Without knowing very little else as not enough info has been supplied, try using the settings for the 6 mosfet controller as you are only using...

I have just fitted these to my 700c Norco and look quite smart, the listing description is wrong though as they only just manage to cover the 42mm tyre I have on the rear. Otherwise I can't fault them yet/...

Which hub are you using ?

You need to ride my bike, the KT controller is 12a rated with 25a peak over 900w at the wheel if needed. Happy days. Your controller although 7a rated has a max current rating of 15a so about 430w at the wheel, not illegal as there are no stipulations for controller current . As long as the...

I have a 17" mtb and the saddle is very high, I'm 5' 9" and about 30" I/s leg. Even my 19" 700c frames pose no issue with all having plenty of seat tube height adjustment Show us a pic of your bike form the side.

That's about right Luke, use it or lose it and manage the battery regime. It is not necessary to be so strict with the 100% charge/usage window to the exact hour a few hours 6 - 12 won't do much harm. Keep charging to simple regime and only charge if under 80%. My weekly commute/errand bike I...

If you were to run two identical batteries side by side and both had generic BMS fitted the battery charged to 100% and used regularly will behave better then the battery only charged to 80% over say short term period of 1 - 2 years. The battery charged to 100% will always be balanced...

Most battery systems use a generic programmed BMS, this only allows cell balancing at the top end of the cell voltage. Typically this is at 4.15v - 4.2v per cell, if you only charge to 80% which is about 4v eventually the cell groups will stray and balance will affect the batteries efficiency...

You will not have a clue of any programming with out the downloaded software and a programming lead.

I can still see all posts K.