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What people don't understand is that high capacity cells can't give both capacity and high current, you have to except one or the other or accept a middle ground esp with batteries having only 4 or 5 cells in parallel. High capacity is possible at low current, for 1500w and 35a a higher spec...

Over 50v isn't enough info, you should be seeing at least 54v and ideally nearer 54.6v. Anyhting less then 54v is not great for a new battery.

Your mates battery may well have a different BMS and a higher discharge rating. For charging the lower the charge rate the better, 5a charging again is well over 1c rate and will lead to the batteries demise quicker. At high amp loading the cells suffer from high internal resistance and sag...

The 35E is not a high drain cell and for best cycle life is best kept to 1c or 3.5a draw per cell in parallel. It is a high capacity low drain cell and is a poor choice for 1500w motor.For now the battery may supply the power required but down the line it will/should suffer. NASA did some...

Great to here from someone who got into ebikes earlier then most of us on here, looking forward to hearing more. How about a pic or two of your bikes.

Dillinger kits are nothing out of the ordinary and can be had elsewhere, elsewhere means better CS and pricing. Dill are known for being over expensive for a crappier service.

My one SXHC IS freehub/cassette model so SDHC may be for a freewheel.

One will be for freewheel and one for a cassette/freehub.

Motors aren't usually to fussed about which controller or LCD/display they work with. Displays/lcd are often not completly compatible with other makes so always best to buy a macthing pair, some features of the display may not work and communication to and fro may not agree. I have used an...

To rule out a cable issue remove the cable connecting the controller to LCD probably one of the Julet 1T4 multi cables. Check for continuity on each pin of the Julet connection that plugs in to the LCD against the pins that go to the controller, it doesn't matter that you may not know which of...

Jarob beat me to the mod and is also running a similar set up an don't recall him mentioning any ill effects, so assume all is well.

I have only had it up to speed (no load speed) on the bike stand, PAS5 on 48t/20t gearing. Controller for the time I had it running appeared normal and no issue I found with running. Gear calc syas 28.8mph is to whack I span it by hand at about 27.6mph. I'm waiting to go on a test run but...

You have to take close up pics of the rear stays /drop outs for us to see. Also if you axle is maxle/thru axle then you can't do any thing.

One signal per rotation.

What is your controller rating ? P14 above says 20a max for controller setting, you need to see at least 30 if not 35a to get 1500w of power.

SVA is a testing station that certifies said machine for type approval, cost is about £55 if you can find one that will do it. The process is not straight forward afaik.

You mean like this ? https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/attachments/1560682909662-889764493-jpg.30881/

This is the item I found had to retrieve it from a favourites list. https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/TSDZ2_wiki/wiki/Wire-KT-LCD3-to-TSDZ2

I have seen/read about some one who used a KT lcd3 with TSDZ but required some electronic wizardry/programming to set up and use. There is not a simple plug and play swap available without some modifying/ tinkering around.

Heat is one thing I plan on keeping an eye out for, one reason why I opted for the 9 fet controller as I found the smaller 6 fets I have used can get massively hot. PAS 5 I only save for hills and off road if needed so heat I think I can keep to minimum though will have to see how it goes. If...