Search results

You have the wire sequence wrong . Tell us the colours of both wires or show pics of both wire ends/connectors. You probably have the signal and 5v connected wrongly or they might be shorting if not insulated correctly.

Until you know the controller max current then you won't know which cells to consider. Other considerations are the miles/range you expecting to get out of the bike, a 3P 10s battery can be 8.8a/316wh - 10.6ah/381wh with 18650 or quite a bit more if you use 21700 cells. Range calcs will vary...

Pleased you are all but sorted Wisper, like Woosh and Juicy all have a very good rep on here for the way they deal with issues and customers. Occasionally the odd bad slag off occurs but usually not down to the companies mentioned but mainly due to buyers who are impatient or expect something...

Continued...... Each cell string of 3 x 10 gives you the 36v nominal rating. String #1 is 3.6v nominal and needs to be able to deliver 17a, String #2 is connected in series for 7.2v 3 nominal and needs to be able to deliver 17a, String 3 again in series for 10.8v and needs to be able to...

Not quite !!! Your cell rating will depend on the max controller current and a bit of headway (30% or more, 50% would be better) so as not to stress the cells any where near there CDR, this helps to extend cycle life without knackering the cells. A cell operating at near it's Continuous...

If voltage is reasonably stable then no saggy battery, saggy battery would be 2-3 volts depending on PAS level or current drawn. All batteries will sag on climbing as usually more current is needed.

It appears that the meter reading isn't reading the voltage level accurately if the battery meter disappears from the display, it should be pretty constant. As long as the voltage reading is constant then that is the better gauge of battery then the meter with 4 or 5 bars. Try playing with P5...

Might want to check the Yose battery actually has the integrated controller inside and not just an empty discharge case for the wiring seems a bit cheap to have controller as well. Description /legend doesn't suggest one is included.

My Oxydrive controller did the same on fully charged batteries it kept cutting out with the low voltage 06 error code so a component had failed inside. The batteries soldered on for a bit more using another controller.

:( Not as easy to repair then as a bike, sounds like you have mended now....

For UK battery/controller and lcd speak to the good people at Woosh. You can use the China route via direct sites or Aliexpress, you then run the problem of sending something back if it goes wrong. UK like Woosh will be easier to deal with.

It's happened again, someone comes on here saying their bike/kit isn't working then omits a major factor as to why the problem may be present. Someone did this last week complaining about their Wisper bike not working and forgot to tell us that they left it for ages locked up sitting out in...

If you get a Luishi controller/battery combo then you can keep the LCD as is and the only bit you need to change for 36v. For 48v not sure if the LCD will work at 48v but likelihood is it will. For integrated battery and Luishi controller speak to Woosh bikes who use that brand, also show them...

Tbh you are better getting rid of the DD and fitting a good lighter geared hub and a 17/20a controller for the 35E, you will loose the speed of the DD hub but will gain better climbing ability. A geared hub will put out approx. up to 800w with a 20a controller.

For UK kits then Woosh are #1 by far the best in the game for kits. If you know what you need then BMSBattery, GBK, PSWPower, Yose.

250w/350w for hill climbing depends of the hub motor used and the current you can get out of it, they generally will out perform DD 1000w+ motors only missing out on the moped speed on level ground. I use hubs mainly and do up to 100 mile rides with over 1000m of ascent on or off road.

Check the pin contacts of the battery and receiver sounds more like battery contact, look to see that a discharge pin out hasn't been pushed back into the housing at all. All so you can undo the controller from the receiver and check the discharge connection inside is ok and not loose or...

It's a DD drive so no freewheel at all inside, you will find that out when you try and ride it without power :eek:.

My one was set for 20% KC but was great for range. I should have no such issues now and have a much easier simpler controller installed, just 5 simple PAS levels and giving approx 13,20,33,50 & 100% power option with no need to play with other programming settings. You have to be careful with...