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You can use 3x lacing but it depends like any hub whether standard bike hub or electric motor hub , the hubs diameter. The increase in hub diameter increase the chance of nipple/spoke entry being less then ideal so always best to go less in cross terms to get a better spoke/nipple alignment. Tis...

As vfr has said it depends on the noise type, maybe a short vid of said noise with motor operating though don't use full throttle power as you may incur more damage. Grinding/rubbing or rougher bearings you should be able to feel in motor rotation with out power, if the noise only manifests with...

Here you go Justin. Endless Sphere strip down, though may be the one you have already mentioned. https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=51310s And a similar geared BMC replacement how to. http://ebikessf.com/BMC-V4-clutch-installation-tips Also many utube tutorials.

I tend to agree about where you lock your bike, I lock my regular errand town/commute bike up when running errands though usually only for a bout 20 mins max. I carry out my errands and go, 2 locks one rear and front wheel both through said wheel & frame to the street furniture. Battery is left...

Use 14g for a bit more flexibility, I use Sapim strong on all my wheel builds. 2X for straighter spoke entry in to nipples. 3x is doable but you get a slight angle on spoke nipple entry so stick to 2x.

Any moisture that does get inside will cause heavy rusting over time and eventual failure, opening then becomes abit of a task. I have opened my Q128, BPM & CST and all have been immaculate inside, the BPM & CST were opened for maintenance to replace rough running bearings.

Hub motors are usually pretty good if you don't submerge the axle. Always make sure if you have to remove the hub wheel to ensure the motor wire/axle slot points down and the wire then loops up to form a drip. Disc brake fixings can allow water in via capillary action, some holes are blind some...

You need to confirm the B is Black on the PAS wiring, if not then Yellow is the ground. Double halls one is spare in case of damage.

If a controller fails usually the two most common reasons are wrong polarity or fet failure. Fets work like a switch and need low voltage to open the circuit to allow power to flow, when one fails voltage fails to flow & like a switch it remains off/closed producing the short. Heat also affects...

The UK Eclipse one they have to charge VAT, Yose seem to get around this by supplying direct from EU warehouse without charging the VAT. If your battery has an issue then certainly will be hard to send it back to EU or even China if they insist. At least with a UK battery, a UK co should be able...

06 is phase short/error which if not a wire issue is a fet issue. Fets act as a switch an can latch on and off, when they get hot the circuit is closed causing a temporary short, once cooled down enough the circuit opens again. I in your case maybe a fet simply failed so you still got error 6...

The price difference is down to the cells used the cheaper one uses unbranded no name China cells , the other one uses Samsung branded 29E cells. No name China cells may either be a copy cell or could be genuine Samsung cells or other brand re badged, rebadged cells are usually second rate...

If hall sensor then error code should show on your lcd/display. Likely is that the motor wire is damaged where it enters the axle and if not shorting and blowing the controller fets, probably has a broken wire that manifests as an intermittent break. Could be a phase or hall wire.

Likely you may have damaged the clutch nylon gears when locating /interlocking with the sun gear if not done correctly. Also did you make sure that there is a small 1mm gap between clutch and armature, a too large a gap may mean the clutch rubs against the hub inner face of the casing.

Without power the ALP motor will be easier to pedal then the CX motor, less moving parts etc,etc in the ALP less mechanical resistance at the crank.

Specs are 11/32t gearing & 9 spd so aught to be a cassette, though 9 spd freewheels are available they are not commonly seen. There should be a Shimano part number on it to confirm.

I use 25a KT it is documented in this thread, it is sinewave/sensored and delivers smooth/ quietly like the 6 fetters, I've abandoned the 48v route using 12v boosters and find it plenty fast with 36v for my needs. In benign conditions I can hit 23/24mph in PAS 1 & 2, PAS 2 is just easier to get...

Bosch will honour the warranty but bikes shops aren't dealerships, if you take the bike to another shop/dealer from the one you got it from then they are likely to charge labour for removing and refitting unless maybe it is a Halfrauds or Evans etc,etc.

Depending on how the C5 is configured on the lcd3 you can limit amperage by 5a or by up to 50%. My one is 5a and use the 9 fet 25a non Julet controller ( except for motor 9 pin).

Bosch dealers are not one for all franchise stop shop and won't instigate a repair if you not buy your bike from them without charging you for labour minimum.