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The assistance level sets the current. From the manual: 03 Maximum current value÷2.00 04 Maximum current value÷1.50 05 Maximum current value÷1.33 06 Maximum current value÷1.25 07 Maximum current value÷1.20 08 Maximum current value÷1.15 09 Maximum current value÷1.10 10 Maximum current...

From what I read this morning they are monitoring all threads...

The 250W nominal power is just EU administrative twaddle. The people who came up with that rule apparently didn't do high school physics because if you throw heaps of volts and amps at a "250W nominal" motor it can provide a whole heap more watts than 250. A real law would be "you can use a 7...

You haven't thought of trading up to a Klimax? You can find bottle batteries on Alibaba which are up to 18 A with the new LG cells. They are longer than the smaller capacities but they are black! Buy a motor and have it laced into the existing rim would be my suggestion.

The pedelec uk forum "Understatement of 2015" award goes to RobF!!! :cool: One of the features of this forum is "ignore user" which I did quite some time ago and so I have apparently been spared a lot of "baloney" as our US friends would say... :rolleyes:

All documentation for BB motors I have seen say "don't fit in eccentric BB"

It is true you have to be in the right gear at the right time on a hub powered bike. I have learnt this since June which means that now I can climb practically anything - especially in my 34 tooth granny gear... Inversely the more the rider inputs on a hub motor the less power it has to provide...

There is no difference in the assistance the rider can give just where the motor is applying it's assistance. The PAS setting is all important with a hub motor. As I got stronger I just turned the level of assistance down and now ride a lot more in level 1 (60W) or 2 (125W) . If I am calculating...

In an ideal world Bluetooth could be an ideal means of getting rid of the wire between LCD and controller. There are things out there but for the moment the price is not right. You should be able to use a phone or tablet with bluetooth as your LCD, there are things out there. It will come sooner...

The speed difference on the flat between 28" and 26" wheels, depending on gearing, can be up to 10 kph. That is one of the reasons I can't wait to get a kit on my 28" trekking frame.

I loved the German autobahn. The radiator cap blew on my Lancia Fulvia 1.3S Coupé after a few hours at 160 kph. Could have been embarrassing but after immediately understanding the source of the problem (clear blue sky + rust coloured water on the wind shield) turned the motor off and free...

I must be a very strong pedaller still! I get much more than that out of my battery which is 374 Wh. I should be getting 50 km but regularly see between 65 and 70 and it sure ain't flat around here. On Friday I rode from Lasarte to Saint-Jean-de-Luz which, with the 14 km ride to the station...

Looking more closely it looks like the disk diameter isn't adapted to the sensor position? Very strange.

Nope doesn't look right. As you reasoned it should be parallel. Something has hit and the sensor has been knocked up and your disk was also displaced before you straightened it. Maybe the sensor doesn't have enough magnet surface coming by to detect it like it should?

Nope VW does generic mapping. Smart people like you go an make it even better.

Or substantial pedal effort. I can just do it on my 10.4 Amp battery but fear of running out when you are really tired is no fun...

It has shaken up the US testing body which is "revising our methods". When there is a test situation companies and individuals alike will do what they can to get the best score. The whole "real world" emissions testing thing is as far from "real world" as it could be. Anonymous testers hiring...

They make electronics. To make their hardware work you need software! Different motors can use the same ECU but require different software programs depending on their individual characteristics. Modern motors in the higher end are mostly "drive by wire" i.e. when you put your foot down a sensor...

Almost all bikes have that limit it is just the manufacturer covering themselves in case of frame or other failure. Most are capable of much more, at least twice that. Like your pannier rack that says 25 kg max, it isn't the rack it is the screws holding it to the frame that can't take more...

Without taking anything off you should be able to adjust it. It is just slipped on over the BB axle. Maybe you will need to use a screwdriver because there us no space for your fingers? Can we have a photo? edit : posted at the same time as oldbob