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There are literally dozens and dozens of bikes. Price bracket and type of riding terrain.

You have to disconnect the white connector and remove the silicone from both parts of the connector, if it does not cure your issue then a new controller is needed. Any programming needs battery supply.

This might fit you and top end of your budget & ready to go for commuting, it is similar retro style to the Kudos bikes with the advantage of larger tyres idea to soak up a few bumps if you don't run psi to high. http://wooshbikes.co.uk/?crusa Don't worry about the fact that it is mail order...

Work out your public transport costing over a year then see how much you can save by using a e-bike regularly, likelihood is that within a year & a half you will be in profit just a case of the initial outlay in the first place.

8 or 10ah will do 16.5 mile trip though it is often best to buy a bike with as much capacity you can afford (capacity is ah or wh) . 10ah = 360wh @ 36v. The larger the battery capacity the greater the range and also bike weight but also less worry about range anxiety and unassisted riding. As a...

As usual just be careful and don't allow the charger contacts to short against each other when powered up and also when connected to battery jst connector. If the low cell group/s do take a charge, charging may take 2 or 3 days with a 0.5a charger, slow is the way to go. Make sure you are...

Personally I would open the battery pack remove the lock barrel and simply replace it with another that fits, a really good locksmith will have a multitude of old stock maybe. A local locksmith I know has unbelievable amount of old stock in his shop and storage area, some of it must be a good...

When you remove the controller there is a white jst connector block 5 or 6 wires (hall sensors) which plugs in to the motor , this is usually gunked with white silicone and sometimes prevents the connector from fully seating and can give false error codes.

On my bbs01 I get an error code 21 and no power with no or faulty speed sensor. Error 30 is a new controller or jst connector not full home in controller.

Are you sure it's not the disc rotor ?

I replied shortly before heading off to work so didn't have time to look at the pic too carefully. Most BMS jst connectors for the sense wiring have an extra pin and is B0/- and connects to the first cell negative, in your case you don't have the eighth wire and just the seven B1+ - B7+ wires...

The first cell group with black discharge lead (side A even # cells ) is 0v the opp end (side B odd # cells) is #1 so up to 4.2v then coming back to this side A next group is # 2 alternate each side and cell group along to get the cell group count. The final cell group #7 has the Red...

The side you show is of cell goups #7 (3.8v), 5 (0.3v) , 3 &1 (4.12v) , what about the voltages on the opp side 2,4 & 6 ? Most likely the BMS has failed and the bleed resistors on group #5 have remained open and has allowed total discharge, the BMS should (if working correctly) prevented...

Where did you get one from was it via the Administrator ?

For £21 it is worth pre- ordering though need to add £3.99 for p&p. Though the sweeping design of the Jone's does look better but I won't pay £130 for handle bars.

Only way of knowing is set SC to 50% and peg the throttle open under load esp on an incline and see how long the controller lasts. The guides have generally been written to enable users who re- programme factory settings to prevent early failure from warranty claims or issues, in the most part...

The noise on your video is electrical intermittent contact so usually a bad phase wire contact or motor wire. The motor wire from the hub often has a two part connector with in 30cm of the hub often located on the front fork RHS. Make sure it is fully pushed home, each part should have a small...

Kirtsin you can pre-order /subscribe them but have to pay now at the check out to guarantee to get them. At £21 a lot cheaper then the £130 to keep up with the Jone's.

My understanding is ; Start current (SC) is for throttle configuring. Reason is the controller stands a chance of frying quicker if you use a throttle and start current is set to high. Lower SC for a smoother initial start up under throttle otherwise the power surge is too much. Start control...

When you ride the bike without no power or turn the wheel by hand how does it feel and sound? Can you describe the noise better, is it mechanical grinding type of noise or an electrical connection sound like a bad contact ?