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Sensored hubs use halls. If the controller has a white hall block I can prompt you in to how to carry a simple hall test if you have a meter. An LBS I doubt will have the knowledge or time to carry out tests or repairs. If the internal sensor is faulty it can be replaced but not a 5 min job...

It sounds like the P1 setting with KT controllers and does affect hub sync under PAS control. You need to know the hubs internal gear ratio and how many hub magnets there are multiply theses two together to get 'n' value. Alternatively the long winded way is to use a sat nav the figure will...

Quite a few times I have wanted to send pic's via PM and in the end post them on a thread for recipient and all to see.

As Woosh has said dis-connect the throttle, set the PAS up to work could be the disc slipping or sensor gap to great (should be about 1 -2mm). Some sensors have a red LED on them this should light up as the sensor pulses. Test the sensor via the wiring at the controller, you should see 1v...

Before wasting any money on a battery sort out the crank play issue first, if not it will only get worse. If not repairable really not worth spending more money as one day it will seize/totally fail on you.

2400wh that is some an a bit more !!! Only way of calculating poss range is by using wh per mile figure and everyone is different but starting at a poss 20wh/m it would equate to 120 miles but there are to many other factors, though bents are usually frugal and aerodynamic compared to an upright...

What's not working PAS ?

In about 20-25yrs then there may be more of a move or infrastructure may move on a bit as the EU bans ICE vehicles, with current cost of EV's most will not be able to afford one.

Segregated infrastructure is required and not just a few lines painted on the road or up the middle of a footway to be used as shared.

If you want more speed there are ways but this is not the sub forum to discuss in. Also use the search section of the forum as this general question has been answered to death many times in means and ways of achieving.

With all being 6s you can connect three ways to get 16ah as below as all are 6s it makes like simpler. A. 2 x 10ah in series = 12s/44.4v x 10ah. 2 x 6ah in series = 12s/44.4v x 6ah. If you then parallel them you still get 12s/44.4v but the ah is accumulative to so is 16ah, you end up with...

Comm's error could be incomatabilty of controller and lcd. Bad wiring connection or a fault between the three components.

Multistars are 10c rating #but in reality stick to 2.5c x ah for max amp discharge. In parallel ah is accumulative as it C rate but in series only voltage is accumulative.

All PSWP sinewave (sensored ) controllers can use speed control or torque control, you have to set the P3 value accordingly. In torque mode each PAS level gives you more amps/torque. For 20a controller, all are approximate. PAS1 2.6A. PAS2 4A. PAS3 6.6A. PAS4 10A. PAS5 20A.

TSDZ is torque sensored can come with a throttle as well.

Don't dismiss the matching of controller amp rating and battery discharge rating, typically with lipo what ever the C rating divide it by 4 to be more realistic esp with Multistars.

Mid drive probably the 48v tsdz torque sensing one from Woosh as they will give you support in case of any issues.

It is for unsensored hubs so Square wave it might work with a sensored hub but will be noisy in operation, not all Sq/wv work with sensored hubs. If you want hall sensor one you need sine wave this one will work it is also KT make, though more expensive...

The type of TA wheeliepete has linked to is ideal, for a direct fix to an eyelet see if the first piece that slides on to the axle can be fitted in a way that you can utilise an eyelet if not then use will need the second part. For a one piece TA I make my own ensuring a tight/ snug fit over...

In use very little, though for hot rodding the Bafang is a bigger motor and likely will take more amps the Yose if required but for me 17 - 20a is all I need for about 20mph in PAS 2.