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Buy the KT 20a 36v or dual voltage controller from either PSWPower directly or via Aliexpress. With lcd3 you can limit the controller amps or buy the 17a version instead and leave it set to max amps...

The driver may have been a 'Twat' but you have probably antagonised him even more now by an act of criminal damage to his car. Likely hood is he will be on the look out for you in the coming months on that particular route you both appear to use or may even take it out on an unsuspecting...

Ah yes forgot they come with the V12L which I didn't use nor the controller with my Yose as I married my hub with 48v controller and a DL sensor & 12 pole disc modded to fit over a Hollowtech BB. P1 87 C1 try 05 - 07 C3 try 0 or 8 C14 try 3 if set to 2.

M26 & M36 are the newer designated LG cells and are meant to be an improved cell over the older ones being the very mediocre LF1 and the 10a offerings of MG1, MH1 & MJ1. However the it does appear any improvement is negligible with maybe slightly less sag higher up the voltage scale.

Egroover you have to let us know how thing's go with the M26 as it is one of their newer 10a cell offerings, M36 is also another newer offering I assume will eventually oust the MJ1 if it proves to be as good if not better.

My PAS works perfectly. Check PAS sensor gap to disc should be 1mm or 2mm at most. Also list your P & C settings as these can be fine tuned to adjust PAS niggles, many have since joined the Yose club after I reported on getting one a little over a year ago...

Nope.

A couple of years ago at least two members brought the Greenway with Bafang max drive was this an earlier incarnation of the M series ? Thread link https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/greenway-cross-city.26736/

The controller pic has the voltage and amps on the label. WZKD is their coding 3618 relates to voltage & amps. Click on the link in #16 not only current controllers available but you can message @ Maggie from there.

Tianjin Santroll web site only shows up a 36v brushed and 48v brushless controller. Your pic is an 18a controller. That controller doesn't show up on their web site. http://maggie0351.en.busytrade.com/products.html

Interesting funky style looking bike but lacking suspension of any kind. I wonder what the price will be 2k ? The bafang OEM mid drive seems to have taken along time to appear on a bike for mass sale over here.

Any China cell brand with fire in the name is a IMHV a fire waiting to happen. These really crap China XXXXxfire branded cells that barley produce 1000mah though are often ludicrously labelled as between 5000 - 9900 mah.

Not my cup of tea. I'm a Swizzbee fan.

o_OWow!!! A suitcase for a top box.

Without opening the lcd (if you can open it) you won't know if a fault is visible. could be a burnt out switch wire as they only carry low amps or a diode or resistor might show up as damaged. Easiest option is to replace lcd. Your spark from hall testing may have been that you accidently...

With my KT controllers via the lcd, I can set throttle to work as stand alone to PAS or can set it to work only after I pedal first. Is it possible that your neighbour has inadvertently found/adjusted a programming feature without realising it ?

Here's a pic of one :eek:. https://www.easyliveauction.com/catalogue/lot/d0985bfe0ecaf06280beed98fa730bc4/0af8d24542e81eb9357e7ef448a6646f/antiques-interiors-and-collectables-auction-lot-266/

Throttle's usually demand max power from the off, not many e-bike ones are fine tuned graduated ones. As Jonah has mentioned 40v or just over is a sign of a battery at end of life or badly out of balance, therefore any throttle input will show up as nil affect or lack lustre due to cell voltage...

For more unbiased cell stats you can use Mooch's reviews on E-cigs as well. 18650's scroll down about halfway then click on battery for new window to open the you have click on the graph links to see them. https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/blog-entry/list-of-battery-tests.7436/ Lygte.de &...

Testing motor halls shouldn't affect screen or cause damage if you only probe on the motor side of the controller. Likely hood is that you may have shorted something in the controller. You can carry out lcd test. Connect everything up. On the LCD connector, bridge red to blue & green to yellow...