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The problem with no name cells is if they don't perform well or suffer bad voltage sag then you will have to buy twice, even pucker branded cells suffer sag but to less of a degree. I use 48v but yet haven't upgraded to single use 48v batteries/packs, I still use my 10a rated cell 36v ones and...

The 36v controller is a custom one made by Kuenteng electronics it is rated 15a max output max output from said controller is 540w or about 430w from the hub, any 36v battery will be ok but ideally buy the best you can afford. Better off paying to have one with good cells rather then mediocre...

When the last indicator goes it often means battery is at 25% or less, the fact you got 15 more out of it supports that. As and when the ambient air temps rise you should see a possible or up to a 20% increase in range.

Use the forum search area. d8veh first brought the Xiongda to light and raved about it, he weighed 100kg and said it would take him up steep hills, he asid it was best in auto mode where it switched to low speed mode and acted like a winch at about 7/8mph. He did find one flaw in them and that...

The integrated battery controller is different tech, I believe the electronics are solid state to save space (similar to DasKit) so there isn't a normal shunt where you can add solder. The shunt resistor will be a flat black one (possibly ceramic) so you would have to either remove it and...

Replace it, the spring is probably weak, broken or dislodged could also be down to moisture/ rust.

Show us a pic or two. I suspect the 3 screws you talk of hold the clutch in place and most likely your hub actually screws together. Possible if you could get it to me 1.5 miles south of Gatwick I can see if I can work some magic on it or you couls speak to the guys at Electric transport shop...

Disc brakes (hydraulic) so muuuuuch better. You have to remember the rear brake needs upgrading for caliper clearance, so go for 180 or 203 rotor plus appropriate adapter then you should have little or no issues.

It's a hard nut to crack unless you are able to try a converted bike, then you will be able to gauge how much effort is required. That which is easy for one rider may not be for another as each of us has different ability,strengths' & weaknesses.

No 36v hub over volted.

As Eastwood said ' Do you feel lucky punk' :eek:.

Woosh has said 28mph max derestricted, for battery range stick to 20/21 if you need to go a bit quicker. You have to remember these are electric assisted pedal bikes not go as fast as you can mopeds. If you want the latter get a 300cc scooter that will do 90mpg.

Over 5.5k on my 8fun cst original clutch /planet gears but have replaced bearings.

Noise can be either bearings need replacing , lack of lubrication inside or even moisture if it has got in and oxidised surfaces, will require hub opening to carry out maintenance. Bearings usually simple to replace and source off ebay or a bearing shop, bearings will have id mark on them...

My 250w 8fun cst hub in pas 5 outputs 800w @20a plenty for a burst up a steeper incline, usually I only use pas 2 or 3 as does my 350w Yose. Although the top end of the controller ampage isn't used much it is there if needed, other wise just means lower pas levels have a bit more nip to them...

I occasionally have a drop of malt or an ale/stout, otherwise very rarely bother.

In the UK if you have a throttle after 2016 it can only be actuated after pedalling, if it is stand alone use it is not legal.

750 bbs or BBSHD not road or off-road legal only TSDZ is legal as it is marked 250w.

35v 17ah has the range /edge over 48v 12ah in wh terms but 48v will have more torque.

Ebikes fuses are standard 12v auto spade fuses either std or the mini fuse.