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Lights if wired in as AK say's will still work if the battery reaches lvc there may not be enough volts to poer the bike but plenty to run lights BMS easy enough to swap out if you are able to do it yourself, or if not someone like Jimmy can help out. The main issue with batteries is...

BBS power is down to the programming and probably needs a lead and the down load software (free) to enable better power from them. I find with my BBS01 even in level 9, I have to work hard on steep off-road conditions (uneven gravel/treelined routes). For me I expect my issue is lack of leg...

My brothers Bosch gen1 battery was upgraded with Panasonic GA still 40 cells but more wh about 2 years ago cost was 275 then. MJ1 or GA are the best 10a rated high capacity cell, probably the best cell is Sony VTC6/A but pricey. Best cell for low power and energy density is Samsung 35E, tested...

You don't need gear sensor on 250w mid drive kits, I would go for the TSDZ 48v 250w torque sensor drive kit with 12ah battery this will give you 576wh mileage will be variable so range could be 40 - 80 miles, if you could expel as little as 8wh per mile then 72 miles or more could be possible...

Yours forks look ideal for accepting a direct torque arm fixing and using the mudguard stay eyelets to anchor/bolt the T/A to.

I wired up permanent lights on my commute/errand bike originally with Big Bear BPM kit and latterly with 8fun CST & KT electrics, lights work up to 84v with integral step down voltage. With the Bigbear luishi controller I fed the lights wiring (front & rear) 22/24awg silicone wire direct to...

The 250w is a nominal rating figure for drives under certain test criteria, if it doesn't get hot it passes the rating test and is labelled 250w. There is no ruling setting the amps you can put through drives but there comes a limit at which they fry, not all drives are equal. 48v is the max...

Steel forks should be ok, however if possible it is worth fitting a torque arm if you can anchor it securely as mentioned better safe then sorry in the vent of the axle spinning in the drop outs.

Try Woosh for UK kit or Brighton ebikes, if you opt for throttle best to fit one brake cut out to the rear. If you like the torque drive of the Cube try tdzs 48v kit from Woosh other wise BBS or GSM are pas drive. GSM option is available so you can use any remote controller and matching lcd, be...

Not always the case but with all my bikes past and present which I have fitted with hubs be it front or rear, the ali dropouts have needed filing deeper and up to 1mm wider to accommodate the Anti rotation washers and to allow the washers tabs to full sit in the drop out. Std qr axles are 9mm...

Besides riding the bike what is your intended use terrain wise ? The most simple kit to fit is a crank drive , hub drives require dropout work and fitting torque arms (T/A's) to help resist hubs rotating in said dropouts. If you don't fit T/A's the hub may well twist ripping out or damaging...

A really pair of crappy fuzzy pics hurts my eyes just looking. Best answer is to dump the crappy cable brakes and fit a Hydraulic disc brake instead, get a fairly basic shimano set up already pre bled and takes about 15 =20 mins to swap over, et voila no more cable or brake issue giving superior...

Try and old heavy duty blanket/duvet or sleeping bag to cover/wrap the bike. Keep/store the battery in a cool temperate place and lightly apply some grease to bike contacts. Problem with sheds are they are small, thin walled and temperature is never very stable so damp forms quite easily.

Controllers and lcd's usually have to be matched (same make) as they use differing software/comms protocols, odd makes may work to a degree but you will not get all of the features to work it at all Makers/ designers aren't that helpful and don't use a standard universal one fits all software...

You or your friend will have to locate the controller then see if there is an unused 3 wire connector as some controllers will have this option but not used., if so you can use any 3 wire throttle. There should be 1 or 2 x 3 wire connectors in use pas and speed sensor if the bike has a wheel...

Yes ideally if you only want to charge to 4.1v per cell with a li-on battery then the battery needs a smart bms wired up, you can then set the charge/balance and discharge to suit. Good cells should relatively stay in balance if cell current share is perfect with a regular cell pattern as in an...

David eluded to this some time ago (though no company named) when the anti dumping complaint was ongoing and that there would be casualties in the ebike industry.

No kit is legal for on/off road with switching between power modes. If it is marked 250w then you should be safe from prying eyes etc, the real test is if a serious accident occurs then no matter what the bike it will be checked thoroughly whether powered or not. The Charlie Alston case is an...

For newcomers it is best to supply a link to any kit you see on ebay or similar site as some are not really suitable, cheapness tends to be the main offering but beware. Woosh sell kits at a good price level with a battery they may appear dearer but you get 100%/5* service & spares from them...

I often can see 35 - 45mph down hill on my ebikes. Starting with some input, gravity soon takes over to maintain a good speed. I wouldn't do this without hdb's though, but as usual rider needs to aware of conditions and there ability to stop in a safe manner.