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To a degree 48v will not kill or harm a 36v hub, many on here have tried it still over volt there hubs and have no issues, go over to Endless Sphere and troll your thoughts and they will simply shoot you down in flames after dismissing you out of hand. Yu cant do it with 36v with inbuilt...

I think Op should re-name the thread; What's my noise or Name that noise !

Where are you in the UK ? By the time you have paid for the bike and new battery you will have spent the best part of nearly £2000. Why not buy a more suitable bike to start with ? One with a larger battery, albeit won't have a Dapu crank drive .

From the way you are rocking the bike with the brake engaged it suggests headset bearing/s worn / loose or play in the forks, another thought could be from disc rotor play esp if it is a centre lock rotor.

A 48v battery will have 33% more wh then a 36v of the same ah, as stated the bike will need to be able to handle 48v and that means the controller being 48v capable otherwise too high a voltage with smoke the controller and render it useless.

There are to many variables involved to gauge the range some one may or may not get, suffice to say the greater the ah the greater chance of achieving the required goal. When new I was able to manage 45 miles form an 11ah battery with very mediocre cells for about 6- 8 months after this the...

When I start on my Swizzbee packs I will be adding pics to that thread, if my prelim work goes well the build will be a little different to normal parallel & series construction.

Bb on your pack this is an option for good current sharing, I have inked in the series connection. Only three are needed instead of six as they are capable of carrying all of the the current, copper wire doesn't have to be used instead 8mm x 0.2 or 10 x 0.2mm copper an be used. Both capable of...

The two thread links I listed in #16 are well worth a read or three and covers a lot of the basics to constructing better packs for current share, odd number parallel cells are a bit awkward for good power share unless you link every cell in series which means more work and material.

Good job on the discharge wire soldering to the nickel, current will flow along the wire from each cell. With most packs only the very last cell has a discharge wire so more stress on that one cell and is expected to take the whole current to flow. Also noticeable is the spot welds on the slit...

It doesn't work in that way to get spoke lengths, you have to know the rims ERD as they are all different depending on the manufacturer and material thickness used as well things like single or double wall and wall height. A spoke 3 or 4mm the wrong size and you end up with nightmare when t...

You can re lace the hub in to any suitable sized rim. Use a spoke calc to order the right length spokes, first of all you will need the rim ERD then input all the dims asked for. https://www.wheelpro.co.uk/spokecalc/ Suggest you opt for 2x pattern for better nipple entry angle.

The watts reading isn't far wrong.

For speed reading to be right P2 needs to be set first so 1 or 6, then you can fine tune using P1, Lower value increase readout, higher value reduces readout. I can get readout close to my Garmin readout though between the pair there is a time lag and they don't always agree nut when at an even...

P2 seems an odd figure but if it works so be it, try 1 or 6. C1 is dependant on which pas sensor you are using . For V reverse series try 05-07, for other types try 00 - 02. C3 0 or 8 works for me. C7 0 , I don't use cruise. C8 0 might as well be off as you can't get motor temp unless you fit...

Mechanical cell holding only needs a two pairs of strong welds. I expect they are also 0.3mm thick those bus's, for diy welder quite hard to spot but not impossible. The key though is having the slits so weld current is forced down for a better weld strength. Less heat & current needed to...

For layering nickel welds don't take very well above previous welds so you need to try and off set the first nickel set to one side of the cell end say to the left on all ends and the second layer to the RHS. The v- end is easy with such a wide base the v+ is a little more challenging but as...

List you P settings 1 -5 and C settings 1 -14. 10 poles fo the hub seems an unusual number but may be correct most geared hubs use 16 poles, so this might be a strating point to configure P1 and then it can be fine tuned to match the final odo speed reading to real time speed.

It should be if the bike isn't switched on, though the battery will have to be on to charge properly. Controller usually only draws current when it or the bike is switched on. Your main issue with loose bad contacting pins is arcing when the battery and bike are switched on. For your battery...

Make the following changes one at a time to feel/try their affect after your hols. C3 try 0 or 8. C4 throttle try 0 only activates when pedalling to be legal, means setting P4 to 1 Also P3 make sure it is set to 1 for current control, pas in all levels will have varying current /power levels...