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Ok you will have to suck it and see now, little tech specs on the cells in use so you will have to se if they can supply 22a the controller asks for.

Guys speak up what do you think of this offering, only 374wh but utilises pucker quality Sony VTC5's a great quality 20a cell. It will most likely out perform the no name cell with a D/D hub. 20a continuous discharge, 25a continuous for 10 min & 35a pulse for 5 seconds. Not often you see...

Might be worth holding off buying that battery and getting one with far better cells for performance but except less ah/wh for a bit more money. What is the amp rating of the controller ?

Most likely little more to tinker with to improve settings, however if you post all your C parameter settings as a list 1 -14 we can see if it can be tinkered any more.

Just looked at your kit link, you may be charging it every day. The battery might get abit stressed with D/D hub kit. The hub is a heavy direct drive gearless hub the motor at low speed will most likely appear gutless and have litlle torque, so hill climbing might be poor. These types of drive...

A must is to buy a cheap volt meter or wire in a cheap lcd meter to monitor the voltage level off ebay, pointless recharging if battery still reads over 39.5v as it will only do a short part charge. Once a few return journeys have been made then you will have an idea of how often to charge...

Screwed face plate should be easy to open.

That follows suit with 15.7 gear ratio so does sound about right, keep playing up and down by 5 or 6 figures either way and sttle for the one that syncs best whilst riding. For that pas disc /sensor reverse v12, try C1 setting 05,06 & 07 one should feel better then the others.

Despite what some say P1 does have an affect on motor sync pick up in pas mode, I had a similar issue with Q128C until I selected a PI figure that suited best and as near as a damn gave me a correct odo reading. Though I was using a sinewave controller, not 100% sure but ex member d8veh I think...

15.6ah so must be 10s6p using 2600mah cells, if you are very lucky they might be Sam 26F though as mentioned probably China branded cells. For the short term we can only guess on mileage but would expect min of 25/30miles and up to 50 may be possible on pas3 . Even if watt hour per mile use is...

What P1 setting do you have and motor winding/rpm ?

Weld first P strip on then weld your 2nd strip (which with the copper series added will be a H looking strip), no need then to add a strip on top. Once all finished cover everything with Kapton tape (cheap enough to buy). Example using a 10a or 15a rated cell for 40/60a rating. ( Pardon me a...

Quite right AK, for P connection if using nickel just go with two layers of 7.5mm x 0.15mm H strip with the slits in(1.125mm2 or 5a optimal ampacity or 7.44a acceptable ampacity). If H strip is no good for the pack build cut it in half as single strips the slit is good as it directs the...

10awg should be no problem with 60/80 watt iron with chisel tip use a larger mm size solder as well like 0.8mm or 1.2mm. 1.5mm or 2.5mm stripped twin & earth copper will be plenty for series connection or beefing up, keep any wire length exactly the same. Don't solder series across cell...

Which hub do you have ? If it is a bearing the freewheel will have one maybe two. The hub has one on the brake side and a larger central one, if opened you can roate them by finger to feel if there is any issue other then a smooth rotation.

The only bit I find I'm cheating about riding an ebike is an earlier death possibly, letting an ebike take the strain on inclines and headwind has to be a great advantage in aiding the body from heart attack, raised blood pressure or a raised heart beat. The benefits don't stop the body from a...

:oops: Oil or grease the riders joints.

Check the cranks are tight, the only time added rider weight might affect a hub AFAICS would be with axle rotation and play in hub axle or a knackered bearing.

Remove the chain and rotate freewheel to rule out issues, check tightness of wheel nuts and AR washers in drop outs. Put up on a workshop stand if you have one and rotate the hub either powered or not to try and pin point the clunk better, if it is internal then could be a broken down bearing...

When soldering heavier gauge awg wire, if using a fine or pointy tip it acts like a bottle neck with heat. Although it is very hot it is unable to displace heat efficiently to heat said awg wire and to melt the solder very well so use the chisel flat wider tips to get more heat in place to do...