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You will have to see how it fairs, on ES there have been some poor builds with the Shenzen UPP packs however that said was in the past. A rep for them say's quality is a lot better and improved now so you should have little to fear, the cells inside will likely not be grate ones but one would...

Not forgetting we are using DC not AC voltage, so only a tingle is felt if at all and not a heavy jolt/shock. The smaller spec motors seem to run off 48v like Keyda etc, but at a much lower current rating due to their smaller size and capability. The Q100s don't last long at 20a it's horses for...

For threads I use Helicoil thread inserts to repair damaged threads easy and effective to use.

The limiting factor for Gully with that battery is range so depends on the range he requires, limiting the controller via reprogramming will aid range but at 25a it will deplete the battery most likely in less then 15/20 miles. Battery connections are easy, just solder on new matching connectors...

I had DAS 22 & 26F but in reality the cells are quite poor 2 years and capacity/range deteriorated so I withdrew them, the 26F I deconstructed and made some 6p3s booster soft packs up and now these are used in series with 36v PF hardcase and soft packs for 48v for better range for my days out...

No issues what so ever, even if you go to 48v later. I have done it and the Bafang /8funs can take it in their stride with ease to about 22a, though we do have a new forum troll who will likely say you will crash and burn but don't worry about this as not so and just some scare mongering. I did...

Awesome Russ , I just tried a search that never worked before and got a few results.

o_O we have liked above in #2 & #3 a 72v controller and 72v lcd3 !!!

I'm sure if the new troll goes on ES to spread his gospel they will soon shoot him down or crash and burn him :eek:.

Blimey Daniel, you mean he's come back to haunt us using reverse psychology. I think many miss his input on the forum as he helped many of us to understand the possibilities that hubs are capable of.

I'm not an 'expert' or an electrician and have yet also to fry a controller or hub motor by over volting. My 36v hub runs at about 23mph err@36v but show it 48v and it bumbles along at 28mph, it would go faster if my legs could spin faster or I change the gearing. Even Daniel disagrees with you...

Dont' forget I still have your MJ1's K so maybe next week if you are about we can meet up.

I'm up for a free battery to play with if any are still going, though will depend on location for collection.

A part from a brake cut off issue with causing no power , then I think any power issues with the BBS is a internal and a controller fault which is only remedied with a new controller.

Topbike kit also sell some good stuff but not cheap, hence why I still use Aliexp for most of my parts. ordered quite a few items lately and all bar one item has arrived within 14 days which I don't mind.

Naughty but nice :cool:, I like your humour :D.

Yes quite right AK, good thing about the fora two or three heads are better then one.

Scare mongering we don't do, but in practice there is no harm in over volting as power is often only used intemittenly, running 48v or 36v runs no extra risk. Go else where and scare other forumites with your continued bleating. Replies are in answer to Op's #1 as he has listed 36 & 48v...

Any controller to support lcd3 has to be made by Kunteng so needs to be KT prefix. https://bmsbattery.com/ebike-kit/736-s12sn-72v1kw-40a-torque-simulation-sine-wave-controller-ebike-kit.html

Good news then for those wanting to go 48v with their hubs, the T12S bar the connectors will have ( I should think) the same dim's as the S12S from BMSBattery so quite large.