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Brakes sensors disconnect them and try motor, if possible try the pas option I suggested for testing before throttle at the end of #57.

http://www.ebikes.ca/documents/HallSensorTestingFinal.pdf In #10 you said I mistakenly connected 1234 together and powered up this would have caused controller damage but not motor damage as the motor halls weren't connected.

The wire short is only 2 pin so usually for eabs of cruise control. Double check your hall connector and make sure all pins are inserted nicely and none are backing out, and are colour to colour.

Although battery is unbalanced we don't know if any of the cells are collapsing when a load is applied, you need to apply a load to discharge and check the cell voltages during the discharge to see what they are doing. If all looks fine then the controller may be the next to fault find.

The reasoning is quite simple really though you need to put it to the test to try. If your controller uses speed control you won't notice it much but if you use torque simulation controller or it is set to current control, then the higher the assist the more amps you will draw. More amps drawn...

Revos have made a video of it going up a 10% hill in the wet. Also see the kick starter goal has been reached.

Despite the nay- Sayers lightest bike possible would be a 8-11kg weight and 2 .5kg kit inc battery though range might be an issue with 209wh battery. A friction drive you engage at will, no led/lcd and very little cable routing to hide. This new Bristol venture works in the wet as well as it...

Did you rotate the side plate bearing manually by finger to feel for play ? My bpm was noisy replacing the bearing made all difference.

The only difference this time is you have connected the hall wires directly to it's opposite mate and not shorting all six together. The white wire is a speed sense wire used when hub has internal speed sensing as well, put it in its correct slot /position to prevent any unwanted shorting. With...

I did my bafang cst either last year or year prior at the 3500 mile point, two bearings inside I replaced. 6904RS bearing I think is located on the brake side so you need to remove all the innards at the same time I also replaced the main central one approx.60mm or so. bearing 6811RS was about...

At least with the trike you can't do the comical fall over with spd's.

That looks better though battery isn't very well balanced, cell #5 (Green) is the worst cell out of balance and may be the cause of your problems. Br 4.11v. R 4.11v. Or 4.11v. Y 4.11v. Gr 4.06v. Blu 4.1v. Pur 4.2v. Gr 4.1v. Wh 4.2v. R...

Freewheels & cassettes also have bearings so may be due for replacement as well.

I would leave this battery some where safe for now in case it catches fire as two cell groups are way over charged.

Double check them again and ensure you have a good battery in your meter as there are a 5 cell reading anomalies or bad cells. B 4v good. R 4.1v good. Or -1.8v ? very bad though it should read 8.1v as can't see how a cell can be --, if it is kaput it should read 0v...

Price is in the thread title.

All is ok as long as + & - aren't shorted, then it gets exciting :rolleyes:.

A re - grease and new bearings would be good for the hub If you have the side plate with six screws they are quite user friendly to repair, bearings are all common standard size and a few quid each off ebay shops. Bearings have there size stamped on them, so for example 6001RS or 6013RS etc,etc.

They had clutch issues if wheeled backwards, probably too many warranty repairs for sellers to take the risk.

:eek:Hopefully you wired these two in Parallel other wise you would have had 72v and magic smoke from the controller.