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C2 is the motor phase parameter try running it in the 8 settings, 0 is usually default.

Are you certain the SWX is hall sensored motor and has 8/9 pin motor connector. Doubly check the motor connector is up to the line and fully inserted.

I got B01S pads from Noah & Theo and found them useless even with cleaned discs, in the end got very cheap China branded for £1.49 a pair. Braking was/is awesome.

So the PAS drive works ok yes ! It is crank or hub drive ?

Sounds sensible for a hot climate.

Looks like you have Sram dual drive hub gears ?.

BMS don't usually give many problems. Check for any internal charge fuse (3 - 5a rating) other wise more likely a wire fault, the charging side is low amp so look at any thin wires going from the charging port or a loose wire. Ideally you need a digital meter for any battery checking, get one...

Battery spec for 28A/4.3v cell. The 5a sag test is terrible imagine them at the 7.5 - 10a your controller is asking of them. https://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/Samsung ICR18650-28A 2800mAh (Purple) UK.html A batteries discharge in amps not ah needs to exceed the controllers max amp...

Greeting Chips, A bike pic would be nice for us to view.

The five cells in P will all remain balanced as very little amps travel between each cell as long as the P connection is secure, we know this because of the thin sense wires used for the bms. The unbalancing comes about in the series connections this is where the big amps rush form one to...

Your components are totally mis-matched :rolleyes:. You are asking 4P x 5.6a max rated cells to have a theoretical 30 - 45a drawn out of them by the controller, it's never going to be good. The 28A is 4.3v li- hv type so you will be losing capacity any way as they are being under charged. The...

Clean the disc with isopropanol and gives the pads a wash in case they have picked up contamination. Remove pads put a drop of fairy on them rub them together and wash off also a light rub with abrasive paper may help.

Problem with them they are for off road rabbiting use with a twelve bore. I don't think you will be very popular riding at night on the roads with them on and most likely plod will have a word. Any oncoming will surely be blinded with such a wide beam as well.

Woosh Crusa has retro look.

No problems with Aliexp here have had 3 or 4 items fully refunded with out quibble, PP isn't dissing Aliexp per say but questioning the validity of paying for extra insurance protection.

Trial and error Steve so what ever suits you. Ride like a normal bike and select an assist level that feels good & comfortable. I select a lower gear and higher assist for peddling as I also want the effort and exercise, as I build up speed or find my cadence is too spinney I go for higher gear...

The bms only balances in the final stages of charging 41v is a bit too low for the balance function to work properly unless it is an intelligent bms that can be programmed or is pre- programmed. My LG intelligent charge system on the Swizzbee is programmed to max 41.5v for balancing. Balancing...

Woosh have backed up what I said in #2. Sticking with assist level 1 & 2 will eke out the range and still tonk along at 18/19 mph with good peddling, on hills you may need to up the assist before returning to a lower level.

Each assist level will have a different amp draw ( torque control) as noticed acceleration is noticeably different, it is on inclines and hills that these levels really come in to play. For most flat/level riding assist level 2 will give the best range for the speed as level 1 can be...

To express gettable range there are to many variables to throw in the pot. Rider fitness, terrain, weather conditions (esp wind), cadence/ leg strength also lower assist levels usage 1 or 2 will use far less capacity then 3 - 5. Dependant on leg strength and cadence, 60 miles might be a big ask...