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Whilst trawling the interweb I cams across this schematic view of the internal parts from an Aussie web site to confirm that the Dual Drive 11/ 3 x 9 system was exactly what the Swizzbee has, a great find just what the web was designed for an online library. New and old drive unit internals...

Back to A1 working and ticktyboo :). After spending a day or two trawling the interweb I went for the easy option in the end of just trying rear hub drive searches and was smacked in the face straight away with the answer. The original design used an already made drive unit the SRAM DUAL DRIVE...

Ignore the 5v in that post I wrote as it was a TYPO and hadn't noticed it. It should have said red and yes from the main power in.

D8veh know about these but has taken a sabbatical of late. We need to see the handle bar display panel and the controller for any spare wire connectors. If those two options don't bare any fruit then a new controller and LCD would work and give you what you need cost about £70 - £90..

If you went the recell route Jimmy at BGA/Insat could possibly up your batteries wh by may be as much as 30% with better newer/modern cells.

If OP has goa exactly the same shape/size of battery then easiest option is to swap cases over. Carefully slide/take internals out and re-insert. Buying from Wisper would have been easier although maybe more expensive, the cells we know will be genuine and of good quality as we hear of 5/6 year...

You can change to lcd if you know the make of controller, should be on the casing somewhere. Or you may have to get new controller and lcd as a pair the only issue is with a new controller is whether wiring and connectors are the same so may need some fiddling about. Or simply for £15 - £30 get...

No beep. Your mosfets look fine for GND test. Issue must be elsewhere on the board.

I use knock off cheap pads, no issues with heat or stopping power.

:D FP won't be the first if he hasn't done so. We have come across similar with users saying there battery or charger were broken only to realise after being told that said battery needs switching on to charge.

You should get higher readings on GND test to the 3 phase wires typically 9 - 10ohm or so, set the dial to 20k/ohm. On my new controller KT I get 9.85ohm on GND to each phase @ 20k/ohm. On continuity, 5v to phase first phase goes to 1800 then 1 and both others read one.

When your new controller turns up show us a pic of the hall wires as they should come with a white connector, part no for connector is DJ7061A 2.8.21 and should simply mate with the one on the hub motor. Show us a pic of the hub motor connector. If you need one for the controller later PM me as...

The Q128 should run ok without halls connected. In your case you will have caused damage to the controller PCB by shorting all five halls together in error, motor halls themselves will be unaffected as they were never connected up. Whether it is a damaged PCB board/resistors or mosfets we don't...

I use Shimano BR- M series brakes up to M525 which all use the same B01S pad and very similar callipers without issues. To prevent over heating modulate the braking down hill to prevent heat build up and don't allow speed to build up like a loony, as Ford has eluded to a larger rotor will...

I find with modern ping bells 6 or 7 pings continuous is needed, back in the day as kids we had the tring tring bells which were very audible but large.

Item link.

I don't have a URL for said item David. My reply was in general when using Aliex as often there are selection boxes other then the main one with item for sale. Op needs to show us a link of the exact item/seller.

Generally the rider was being a complete Dick, the best bit was he a got a palm in the face at the end. The Airzound is better 2 or 3 times louder then that wimpy thing he has, mine doesn't get used much but is there mainly for other vehicle use. For peds I use a ping bell well before with...

:confused: It's already black Ford, he needs silver paint.

Swap the case's over.