Search results

The Boss spot welder was duty &vat free, although $85 the seller marked it as $25.

I have yet to remove tyre or wheel to replace any broken spokes takes me a bout 3 or 4 mins and the jobs done.

Use a 36v 250,350 or 500w geared hub with your battery choice and a 36/48v dual voltage controller it will be better then the D/D hub. If you have a freewheel gears instead of a cassette you could always get a 800w geared hub. Usually for the good stuff you have to get direct from China sellers...

P1 setting needs changing. To set the correct value motor reduction gear ratio x hub magnets (Q128 = 16). I expect you have a default setting of 87. I haven't seen a definitive listing of the reduction gear ratios, listed I have seen quotes of 9.6, 12.6, 13.2 & 14.2. For Q128c try any of these...

Can't see what the seller is doing with that extra 7 core. Obviously the battery connects to the controller so do you know if power is actually going in and coming out ? If the 7 core is wired to the pcb you would at least expect to see a voltage reading on the red and black. What you need to do...

It's the charger you need to take not the battery.

As Woosh has said that is the pas/cadence sensor so does nothing to change the speed. Have a look at the bikes electronic controllers exterior wiring to see if there is anything there, some controllers have a restriction wire connection or sometimes a small potentiometer adjuster.

Summer is a good time to buy they are usually cheaper and on offer.

2 pin EU plugs are 220/230v so are ok to use in the UK, just needs an adapter plug from a diy shop. The Swizzbee has a EU plug and I use an adapter.

Woosh have beaten me to it, could well be the grease has now dispersed.

A nice general pic of the complete bike from both sides might be better, esp one with the hub motor cable and its route. The 2nd to last pic shows to me what looks like the botched three phase wires and five hall sensors, looking at this diy repair makes me think the previous owner has added the...

Yes I know that !!! What I meant was led or lcd handle bar control. If lcd then possible to unlock the speed other wise you need to have a look for the controller box, there may be a speed link wire or a potentiometer adjustment.

led or lcd ?

For help you nee to let folks know your bike brand/model and also the controller maker. The controller and lcd are programmed to communicate with each other so the lcd needs to be of the same brand/make.

I can't cypher much at all from the pics. Where does the other end of that multicore cable go to ? I count 7 wires and not 6 !! The pics are to close up and don't show any of the cable runs. One thing you need to confirm is a voltage reading out of the controller box which appears to be the...

I have the Edge touring the round trip routing I have never tried off road and the on road routing takes me on roads I prefer not to use. Using open street maps with Garmin you can plot any course and upload it to your device, them simply follow the route for a free flowing ride with out the...

Gubs you have a wicked sense of humour, playing them at their own game and wrapping them a round your little finger. But it does show how unscrupulous these cold calls are and the employees/callers are only interested in any type of a sell to gain commission. Recently a company has been laying...

Welcome to the forum doppleganger :p.

Looks like I've a doppelganger now (if only by name) :eek:. You will need to show us some pics of what you have to get an idea also of the kit you have. The 6 wire cable/flex sounds like a hall sensor wires for the motor and usually has a moulded 6 pin square plug to mate with it's other half ...

The Brand -X appears to get good reviews for a budget D/P esp fort he Ascend 11 & Ascend, one being int and to'ther ext routed. The 150mm version not so good it appears. Brand - X is a CRC own brand, which incidentally is now a part of Wiggle having acquired the former. Wigglecrc is the new...