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Water /moisture in the led handle bar controller causing a short or damp some where shorting the 5v line ?

Nothing beats a good solder joint. Try some and let us know, for battery wiring use blue and yellow only. How good they are depends on whether they survive a good tug test.

Be wary of that seller, the battery is not 20.8ah. Depending on the cells used then the capacities are as follows. The Sanyo BL's = 20.1 ah. Samsung 26F = 15.6 ah. Samsung 22P = 13.2ah. That's if they are genuine cells. For recell use BGA Reworking in North London...

Your charger will only charge a 6s battery so is no good for you 7s battery. What is you are trying to achieve with 7 wire jst lead ? Is to balance charge a 7s battery with a 6s balance/charger, if so forget it won't work. If it is for a 7s BMS then all sense wire go to positive end of each cell...

Typically 25 -35 quid. Ask BMSB to mark the value as $100.

42V is perfect for a 36v nominal battery and indicates serial connections and overall balance is fine, though it doesn't rule out that some parallel cells/connections may be low or failing which would account for poor range. You haven't mentioned the motor wattage or battery Ah and which power...

Your +ve results show no resistance so all three are fried.

905 SE is pas sensor so the controller only needs to see gentle crank movement between magnet and sensor. 905T is a torque sensor drive that needs to see rider effort and pressure applied to the cranks generally not the ideal set up for arthritic knees, however it isn't a one trick pony...

Just realised K is using his alter ego Spanos :p.

I have wired fixed lights on my commute/town bike,like you I don't need to bother about charging them. On my other riding out bikes I use rechargeable rear USB lights and the front is one of the ' Best head lights'. My current fixed lights utilise the lighting wire on the KT controller and...

Sambal who frequents the forum is in Sweden and rides in similar conditions, he would be a good source for riding info.

Possibly ;). In this pic there are two older ones and a younger one in the middle.

Show us a pic of the battery front end often you will see the wires/loom entering the front end of the case, you can also trace/ follow the wires from the battery to the controller.

A part from the grease it is bone dry inside. When I do the conversion,I wont miss the 6 speed assists and the 3 torque modes. The 5 assist levels of the KT's are so much simpler and easier to toggle through and use.

Unless you live in an area with flat terrain avoid the 328rpm in big rims/wheels as they don't produce much torque. If you have hills you need the torque so opt for 201 rpm. With calm flat conditions with no head wind at all my 36v 201 can get to 22mph, generally though 19 mph.

E30 error needs investigating first, often 30 is Abnormal comms to lcd. If this the case then the issue is often wiring from lcd to Controller or blown controller probably fets. Have a look inside your controller you may see signs of scorching or blown/burnt parts.

On todays ride out the controller was fairly quiet no where near as bad as the last time, having other bikes as well I try and use them all. My 17a KT arrived last week so may leave a while for a winter project, also the 3 different size bearings arrived this week for the cst.

A couple of possible faults I can think of but without confusing the issue for now we just need a charged voltage reading.

Not posted on this thread for a while, 63 miles total today. A ride off to the Surrey hills, taking in Leith hill, Ranmore, Polsden and Boxhill. https://www.strava.com/activities/1171290438 https://www.strava.com/activities/1171290492 Only pics today are from Wonham Manor Deer Park at...

Could be out of balance. We need to know the voltage after you have charged it and the batteries nominal voltage. Depending on the reading you may have to open the battery to check cell groups via the BMS if fitted.