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It depends on your cycling style and where you cycle/ride. For a leisurely riding style with hills the a hub will be fine if you are a sportier rider then a crank drive. Carbon forks and hub gears only leaves one option a Cadence or a TS crank drive. For hub bike look for a 201rpm motor which...

They are what they are , cheap & plastic. I used a pair about 18 months ago eventually they broke and they needed regular tightening up, however they worked quite well.

Does it charge ok ?

If planning longer rides start modestly until you can gauge the battery range, so start with a 10 mile ride and check the voltage. There after increase your rides by 3 or 4 miles at a time.

Evans have a pedal carbon mtb for the same price, seeing the Pivot emtb has a mid drive and a battery you could say its a bargain:rolleyes:,

Your 24v battery will be have 7 cells groups each will charge to 4.2v max = 29.4v fully charged. Your work ride and voltage reading of 28.24v indicates that each cell group (to with in reason ) will have discharged to 4.03v, you should be quite safe to ride your bike without stressing the...

No experience on my part as I have been considering one for a little while and combining with an Afine 8 on a hybrid. The 250 & 350w I assume has different windings/rpm ? I noticed PSWPower sell spares/parts and the controller listed for it is the same whether 250 or 350w so they must be amped...

New pad material about 3mm so a worn pair down by 4mm will lend to extra lever travel.

I can help you there, it was built by Capt Pugwash:D. Looks like a working prop from a 60/70's tv show or the like. Any way it's not an electric bike as it has no pedals , it is an electric scooter/moped and not legal. There's a label on one side with some writing on.

Unless there is an airleak/fluid loss then most likely warn pads, a check on pad material left will tell you.

The X6 hub is a brushed 250w one, amp draw is dependant on the controller rating, having only a 6amp battery I doubt the amp draw is more then most modern brushless hubs. The amp rating should be stated on the controller located in front of the bike rack. You should possibly be able to replace...

For the Oxydrive you need to take a gnd -- feed off the controller or battery line and a live feed from the battery wire, bung a fuse on the live side and wire in a simple switch unless you want night and day lights.

In the past I got two DC lights off Bangood fitted front and rear and wired them direct from the controller or battery with an inline protected fuse. Better still now I use a KT controller with light/horn output so even easier to wire in...

I had a mooch around on the S/downs today and for the first time bumped in to a fellow forum member on his Cx drive FS Haibike we rode and chatted for about a mile before going different ways, Peter from Hove can't remember his user name :rolleyes:. One thing I noticed was the CX drive is a lot...

We did have a Gerald but couldn't say. Most beeks are odd :eek: or I should rephrase a bit eccentric o_O. Then again there are probably a few eccentrics on this forum :p.

He not understandy vouz :oops: !!! Lcd/led panel is not a controller it is a handlebar display, the controller is remotely located and is where the battery and drive motor wires connect to a pcb. A part from a Cyclotricity logo no indication of battery voltage / labelling and any controller...

My 13ah & 11ah Samsung cells were ok for a the first year before capacity started waning.

If the battery is removable from the frame then you can get it recelled to give more ah, possibly 30% or more capacity.

I have tried dowsing and it works and just not for water. The most simple and easiest set up is a pair of empty plastic Biro outers and a pair of straightened coat hangers bent at 90 degrees at one end leaving a 4 or 5 " tail. Slide these into the Biro outers ensuring that the can swing freely...

You can't buy cells pre configured. You either have to buy singles and tab weld them your self or get them recelled professionally.