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E bike/ batteries are only best considered if they can be used regularly, the batteries don't like to be left to just die. Unfortunately the pics for me reveal nothing, the black heat shrink needs removing esp from the connector end.

Have a look on ebay for 14awg silicone wire, it is rated for 32a so plenty to handle your needs, buy any length by the meter you require. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Flexible-Soft-Silicon-Wire-Cable-14-AWG-Red-Black-for-Radio-Control-Boats-/321830440901

With a arthritis a step thru seems the best bet for your price range look at Woosh bikes as weel or not so long a go Kudos were offering their Safari bike on a very special 2 for £995 being an older stock model will have a full throttle and apparently quite a good hill climber.

A decent hub kit about £500 min though some don't like the end result as they tend not to be as neat as an oem bike. Though select the right kit and you can have a 19/25mph bike which invariably means more then 250w. For about £850 you can have a 250w 25a BBS02B mid drive.

Shame you feel that way, you ask for help and post an image that isn't the same controller. It doesn't help us much as controllers from different manufacturers are all configured a bit different some are easier to mod or hack then others, the only one who looses out is you as you are stuck with...

I knew the pic was different from what Chris posted about as there are a few threads on Pedelec.de forum which I peruse and the Tongsheng has a different shape to it. The KZQW22A is as d8veh says a MIFA Tongsheng used a lot in Germany on various Chinese hub branded bikes, hence why I asked for...

You will need a compatible controller the same make usually, though the cheapest and free option is to mod the controller shunt for up to 25/30% more amps. 22a might be about the max the SWX02 will benefit from. Your battery is probably at times working at 75% amps it can handle, so better cells...

Cas you need to post some pics of the batteries out of the case esp one of a PCB/BMS/ if there is one in side and the wiring, we can then guide hubby on any possibility of coaxing the batteries to charge.

No they don't work like that. Replace the pas sensor shouldn't prove to be a major problem. For a throttle you will need to see if there is a spare wire connector from the controller.

For polarity use a DVM , red to + & black to -- . If voltage reading only appears polarity is correct, if a -- appears before the reading polarity is reversed. If polarity is wrong swap the wires over may need soldering.

It does very much look like a KT model, though no speed restricion wires noticeable. The model prefix isn't readable due to pic clarity. Bremsen = Brakes Gas regler = Throttle Lichmodul = Lights. Does the bike have LED or LCD panel, LCD panel will possibly allow possible speed increase.

Web site link ?

Ideally you will need a good ebike retailer who has knowledge or a local ebike enthusiast who would be willing to have a look for you. A forum member who is local to you may be able to recommend some one or offer to help.

If the batteries are lithium ion then the probability is that after so long without use they have either gone to sleep or a cell group/s has discharged it self and will not allow any charge. The battery has a BMS (battery management system) which acts as a switch and if it detects either a too...

AK is now a fully fledged bender :oops:. For a horn then an Airzound is very loud ,140 decibels loud. Cheap to fill with air from a track pump to 100 psi. If it were I then at least one if not two flags are better then none.

Without the bike in front of us we can't say exactly what is broke !!! Ideally you will need to open the controller and battery to have a look, also familiarity with a DVM for voltage checking would help.

Yes will be better. 8,10 or 12 mag disc will be a big improvement, the signal pulse will be smoother and quite instant.

Polarity/connectors may be wired correct however if the battery was on when connected then it may have arced on contact and caused cross polarity. The fuse blew previously so a short/wire fault may have been a primary issue, there could also be a wire short in the docking base if there is a bad...

Definitely the last passage ;). I have a throttle on with my Q128c it assists up to 17.5 and is great for getting away at standing starts.

If the battery shorted because of wrong polarity when connecting it on the bike then you will have fried/damaged the controller, likely to be capacitor/s popping off.