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Disc brakes are great in that they make swapping around wheel sizes easy. I have rebuilt a Barracuda hydra that came with narrow 700 x 37 (622) with 27.5 x 2 (584) on front and 26 x 1.75 (559) on rear. Two things I think you need to watch out for. Firstly, the forks and chain stays are probably...

I just looked at my daughters Pendleton (2017). With hers, its just an alloy cup type thing with two rubber seals and a wire hook to support the cables. Its not threaded. The stem is raised high on her bike so there is plenty of room to lift up. Sometimes a picture is worth a thousand words...

I think anotherkiwi had that problem (2019) and came to the same conclusion in terms of not pedaling until the speed goes below 25 Km/hr. He comments on it below. I hope its some help. https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/bafang-conversion-kit-recovery-from-over-speed-is-slow.35759/#post-521728

On my daughters it just lifts off. The headset is tightened in the traditional way by firstly loosing the locknut and then tighten the bigger nut just a little usually with your hand. Retighten the locknut.

Are the ball bearings loose or caged? If they are loose, you need grease to hold them into place but I have often used Vaseline for this purpose. Kinder on the hands if you have to adjust/shim the bearings. Other than that, I just give an extra few drops of motor oil after the freewheel is...

I cant recall but anyhow I use the simple method of just measuring the original rim depth and getting a similar replacement rim with the same depth where the spokes are not been replaced (usually front wheels). Where the spokes are been replaced (e.g rear wheels), I can use a different rim depth...

I wonder is the side cover rubbing of the green wire where the insulation has worn away?

On my bike, for full throttle, P4 is set for 0 and C4 is set for 0 (or also 3). The bike will work with throttle without even fitting a Pas sensor with this setting. For legal throttle, I set P4 =1 and C4=3 to get walk assist to 6Km/hr and full 'boost' (throttle) when pedaling only but you need...

The common default setting I see when new is P4 = 0 and P3=1 which normally gives a full throttle and a 'torque' (simulated) PAS levels/scaling rather than speed. You could change back to these settings in the first instance and start from there and possibly only change one setting at a time...

The last motor (mxus) I dismantled had a circlip under the brass washers that needed removing. Also I needed to use two large screwdrivers to prise off the clutch assembly with a little bit of force. Dont lose the brass washers and pin/woodruff key under the assembly.

Two ambulances fires in Ireland last week. They seem to be blaming the auxiliary lithium ion battery. https://www.classichits.ie/news/national-news/warning-issued-by-national-ambulance-service-as-two-of-its-vehicles-catch-fire-in-a-week/

There are many types. I have four types on various bikes in the family, but my bike uses the top left type.

I think I can see your wife point of view. 220W may not enough at times and may be too much at other times. I think the motor rpm is important. If its too high, then you will get just 220w the whole way across your normal speed range with no tapering off as the speed increases. In my own case...

I wonder are you using an older square wave controller rather than the more modern sine wave controller. There has been reports on this forum of difficulties with AKM motors on square wave controllers that were solved by changing to sine wave controllers. e.g...

I am inclined to think that good performing motors with KT controllers dont like being hobbled/restricted to 25 Km/hr. The motor is just hitting its peak power band when its suddenly cut off. But the impression I get with some kits is that it does seem to work ok with lazy legs and a fairly...

There was a discussion lately where a recently fitted AKM had similar problems . https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/kt-controller-strange-behaviour.48804/#post-746420

Aikema in their catalog below divide their hub motors into two categories, inner rotor and outer rotor. The inner rotor type does not have a continuous axle but two shorter axles with the body of the motor forming part of the axle as shown in photo below. This allows them to fit an inner rotor...

I find what you say above interesting. I changed my front motor from a MXUS to a AKM 100 and found the same. But I think they are two different designs of motor. The mxus has its copper stator in the center whereas the akm is described as an 'Inner Rotor Motor' and has the magnets in the center...

I looked at your photo. The white speed wire is not connected (and I presume you cant find somewhere to connect to) as I think the controller setup is for the small direct drive (no internal clutch or gears) scooter motor. The motor above looks to be a geared hub motor. When fitted, If you spin...

The scooter instructions are a below. . This may potentially cause two problems if you use this control system for an e bike motor. Firstly, when you change from a 10 inch to a 20 inch wheel, the bike will have to traveling at 10 km/hr for the throttle to become active' The second problem is...