2nd hand Wisper

[rustic]

Well, I drew a bit of a blank on this one. I haven't seen any second hand Wisper 905's for sale on ebay, or the classifieds section of Pedelecs. I had some email communication with a couple of retailers, but both wanted £800+ for their used bikes. I think for that kind of money I would personally prefer to look at saving harder in order to buy a new model, or look at other makes of bike.

Thanks for the suggestions anyhow

 

[Mussels]

Well, I drew a bit of a blank on this one. I haven't seen any second hand Wisper 905's for sale on ebay, or the classifieds section of Pedelecs. I had some email communication with a couple of retailers, but both wanted £800+ for their used bikes. I think for that kind of money I would personally prefer to look at saving harder in order to buy a new model, or look at other makes of bike.

Thanks for the suggestions anyhow

From what I have seen of demonstrator bikes they are little used and most of the components are in near new condition, cosmetics will have had a harder knock as a demo bike. £800 is the cost of a new one minus the cost of a battery so if you are getting a full warranty then it's not a bad deal especially if the battery lasts you a year.
It's not a bargain though so I'd have to be convinced the bike was in very good order before paying that much.

 

[pl1974]

If it's completely dead that's indicative of a broken connection/switch of some sort (i.e. fixable). The bike won't operate if the voltage is below a certain cutoff (31V I believe), so it's unlikely to flatten the battery completely (and if it did that'd really damage the cells) unless there's a BMS fault. Depending on your warranty situation you might want to open it up (4 screws) and check the cells. Best check that ETS won't fix it first though.

The charger socket isn't switched or fused so you might get a voltage out of there. I'm sure you don't need to be told but, be VERY careful poking around these batteries though, if you short them it can be very nasty.

BTW There's a wiring diagram for the 2007 905SE somewhere on the forum if you go searching...

Thanks for this - tried the power at the charging socket and 41V!

I assume this must mean its either to do with the switch or the fuse then?

Paul

 

[torrent99]

Thanks for this - tried the power at the charging socket and 41V!

I assume this must mean its either to do with the switch or the fuse then?

Paul

Sounds like it! (It's very naughty of them not to put a fuse on the charging socket if you ask me!)

So the next question is...do you ask ETS to fix it....or fix it yourself (pretty easy, for a test try replacing the fuse anything that will conduct will do! Also the power switch levers out pretty easily without opening the case) and hope that the batteries are OK?

Do you know the battery's history?

 

[pl1974]

Thanks for this.

Still a bit tricky to know re ETS, I did notice the socket is only two screws, I'll try another fuse, although tested the fuse on multimeter and seems ok.

Paul

 

[Bigbee]

David at Wisper offered you an ex-demo,did you contact him?.Maybe its better to go the second hand route like the other guy has done on this thread,picked up a real bargain

Nice bit of blatant advertising by the way for the Mistral from who ever it was from again. I wish you well with your sales.

Well, I drew a bit of a blank on this one. I haven't seen any second hand Wisper 905's for sale on ebay, or the classifieds section of Pedelecs. I had some email communication with a couple of retailers, but both wanted £800+ for their used bikes. I think for that kind of money I would personally prefer to look at saving harder in order to buy a new model, or look at other makes of bike.

Thanks for the suggestions anyhow

 

[rog_london]

Sounds like it! (It's very naughty of them not to put a fuse on the charging socket if you ask me!)

I suspect there probably IS a fuse in the charging circuit, though I wouldn't know for sure without dismantling it. Bear in mind that it would be a much lower value than the 'main' fuse, because the charging current is normally only around 2 amps, so a 3 amp fuse would probably be plenty.

Obviously you wouldn't get away with that in the output side. That would probably be in the 10-15 amp range, though once again I haven't looked.

Rog.

 

[pl1974]

Good news and bad news..

Well I bit the bullet and removed the 3 pin socket to have a look what was going on - mistake straight away as I realise they have nuts on the back which fell inside

Having a peer inside I can see a broken wire to the back of the fuse, so I decide, what the hell lets have a look.

First off there are only two screws holding the case together not four that should be.

When I get inside I'm greeted with a hack job to bypass the proper fuse and put an inline spade type fuse instead. (see picture)

The question is why??

o yes the good news... the spade fuse is blown, theres the problem..

At ths point I'm close to contacting ETS for refund..

On the other hand, the challenge to bring this back to its former glory is great

Paul

 

[rog_london]

Well I bit the bullet and removed the 3 pin socket to have a look what was going on - mistake straight away as I realise they have nuts on the back which fell inside



When I get inside I'm greeted with a hack job to bypass the proper fuse and put an inline spade type fuse instead. (see picture)

The question is why??

o yes the good news... the spade fuse is blown, theres the problem..

At ths point I'm close to contacting ETS for refund..

On the other hand, the challenge to bring this back to its former glory is great

Paul

Hi Paul. I suspect the reason for the spade fuse is that it's not easy to get hold of high-current 20mm fuses. You just try to get hold of one with a rating of more than 6.3 amps, and I think you'll know what I mean. Spade fuses are made for the car trade, and go up to some serious high-current values. Obviously that 20mm fuse has blown before, hence the bodge.

Rog.

 

[pl1974]

Good point Rog.. Makes you wonder why it kept blowing doesn't it?

I swapped the fuse and plugged it all back in and it blew the fuse again.. Looks like the speed controller is shorting across the power input now?

Ho hum...

Thanks BB - did I mention I have a 2nd hand Wisper for sale....

 

[torrent99]

Good point Rog.. Makes you wonder why it kept blowing doesn't it?

I swapped the fuse and plugged it all back in and it blew the fuse again.. Looks like the speed controller is shorting across the power input now?

Ho hum...

Thanks BB - did I mention I have a 2nd hand Wisper for sale....

That's strange. Why's the fuse blowing I thought they changed the controller?

(BTW When I checked internally on my Lishen I couldn't see a fuse on the charging circuit, unless there's one on the BMS somewhere)

Whilst you are in there, why not check the voltages on each of the cells? If you have damaged cells that might show up as one cell with a very different voltage.

 

[pl1974]

Its really odd - as I said, it was working (for about a mile until the back wheel started to wobble)

Looked like it had 10 cells in the battery, I'm more used to model aeroplanes that use lipo's in them each cell had 3.7V, seems that probably translates..

I will check the voltage at some point, I assume the circuit board in there is to keep them balanced?

Wonder if its worth having a look inside the controller? Although think I read on here somewhere you can pick them up for around £20?

Paul

 

[torrent99]

Its really odd - as I said, it was working (for about a mile until the back wheel started to wobble)

Looked like it had 10 cells in the battery, I'm more used to model aeroplanes that use lipo's in them each cell had 3.7V, seems that probably translates..

I will check the voltage at some point, I assume the circuit board in there is to keep them balanced?

Paul

Yes that's the BMS. David from Wisper said that their latest battery is the first to have a BMS that monitors on discharge, so I assume the BMS only looks after the charging side.

Yes mine has 10 cells, in a slightly different arrangment (the BMS is sandwiched between the 2 cells at the side rather than just at the top).

I suppose you should check the motor windings for shorts? (and the controller for obvious damage), Although I think it's getting time that ETS took it back as it's certainly not "fit for purpose" as it is!

 

[wotwozere]

Hi Torrant

It is never good to mess around with things you do not understand better to take it back to the shop otherwise the warranty is useless.

thx


Bob

 

[pl1974]

Agreed, not sure I want to get too far into the gubbins..

I'm pretty sure its the controller though, I tested the power input cables with the mutlimeter and it is shorting..

I've written to ETS and Wisper, but does anyone else know of a source to buy spare controllers?

Thanks,

Paul

 

[Wisper Bikes]

Controllers

Hi Paul

We can supply a new controller, but we need the bike serial number to make certain it is the correct one.

Good luck

David

 

[pl1974]

It works!!

It was my silly mistake.. I had attached the battery wires to the controller by colour, rather than checking with the multimeter. Who would have thought it, but black is positive and red negative from the battery

Anyway swapped them over and its working! Luckily seems no damage for the backwards wiring..

ETS had said they would have the bike back in and sort it for me, but hopefully no need now.. They also confirmed that they put the in-line fuse in as those fuses are easier to get hold of - just as you said Rog..

Tomorrow I'll tidy up all the wiring and have a test ride - theres not much room in the controller 'bay' is there?

David thanks for your reply and the pm, good to know you're there if I get stuck.

Once I can get the basics working I can set about getting 'her' tidied up.

Paul

 

[torrent99]

It was my silly mistake.. I had attached the battery wires to the controller by colour, rather than checking with the multimeter. Who would have thought it, but black is positive and red negative from the battery

Anyway swapped them over and its working! Luckily seems no damage for the backwards wiring..

ETS had said they would have the bike back in and sort it for me, but hopefully no need now.. They also confirmed that they put the in-line fuse in as those fuses are easier to get hold of - just as you said Rog..

Tomorrow I'll tidy up all the wiring and have a test ride - theres not much room in the controller 'bay' is there?

David thanks for your reply and the pm, good to know you're there if I get stuck.

Once I can get the basics working I can set about getting 'her' tidied up.

Paul

Fantastic news!!! Black is red and red is black?!?!? Bizarre!

 

[Mussels]

Tomorrow I'll tidy up all the wiring and have a test ride - theres not much room in the controller 'bay' is there?

If you get the chance can you see what the connector looks like for the hall sensors and how big it is.

 

[pl1974]

Mussels - thats an interesting one, its probably about 10 - 15mm square, however the motor connections are 5 wires with tags on that just plug into the block and were taped round..

I've put some heat shrink round them, but would really look to replace the connector completely, I've read about how hard it is to find connectors to match existing ones.

Paul