[35+1A] controller / [30A] 48V 13ah Battery

[Kez0506]

My E-Bike is a 1000W 48V Brushless Motor W/ 26+1A controller [replaced with 1500W 35+1A controller] and 30A 48V 13ah Battery.

I recently received the replacement controller [1500W 35+1A controller] aa my old one was faulty [1000W 26+1A controller] and want to know if it is dangerous having a 35+1A controller connected to a 30A 48V 13ah battery.

Also, can anyone explain current limiting?

will current limiting stop the controller drawing more then 30A from battery?

I have a SW900 display and have current limiting on 30 [P15]. The default setting was 26.

 

[Benjahmin]

Your new controller will try to draw 35A from your battery, whether this is maximum current or not is moot.
Your 30A rated battery will not be able to deliver it resulting in voltage sag, loss or power and battery heating causing an increase in internal resistance leading to furthet voltage sag - and so on.
End result, very quickly knackered battery.
Immediate effects, severe loss of range.
!000w direct drive motors are highly inefficient at anything but modal speed (the rpm it's windings are designed to run at), the worst being hill climbing. Most power drawn from the battery will be turned into wasted heat. Stop start running (traffic etc) will also produce heat and wasted battery power.
Dangerous? Possibly but likely not.
Sure way to destroy your most expensive component, the battery.
Oh, and illegal.
If you really need the speed then an overvolted 250w geared hub (with suitable controller) will get you similar results but be much kinder to your battery.

 

[Kez0506]

I went out for a ride this morning and I’ve never had this but my battery cut out Error 06 [SW900] and wouldn’t turn back on for a good 2 minutes. I think it was the BMS cutting it off?

I’m thinking of investing in 52V 40A 20ah Panasonic Battery, this should fix the problem no?

 

[Nealh]

Have a look for ebike related battery fires, one reason why one should ideally stay inside of the battery continuous current rating. Though most BMS will have a over current rating it isn't there to continuously abuse the battery with over current.

 

[Benjahmin]

The cutout is telling you that things are under stress. Either temperature cutout or low voltage cutout.
Your battery rated current needs to be the controller MAXIMUM current plus 15 to 25%. Not knowing the maximum current of your controller, we can't advise. But such a battery will be well expensive .
Do yourself a favour. Ditch the motor and controller/display combo. Buy a 36v geared hub motor with a 48v controller. It will be cheaper than a new battery and work far more efficiently.
The battery you have sounds like it's wounded but could still have a good life if treated well. Stop flirting with a possible lithium-ion fire, nobody wants to be around when that happens.