36V Powabyke front wheel conversion. Advice needed please.

[WheezyRider]

Ok, thanks for letting me know. Maybe because I am logging in from outside the UK, but I am getting this:



But, even 30 A would not be enough for a 31 A controller.

 

[Cadence]

Ok, thanks for letting me know. Maybe because I am logging in from outside the UK, but I am getting this:

View attachment 53076

But, even 30 A would not be enough for a 31 A controller.

The first two columns are for 36v (15.6A and 17.4A), the third column is 48v. 13A.

Agreed about 30A not enough for 31A controller. I've come to the conclusion that a 22A controller is a waste of time with a 20A battery as I would have to restrict it to about 18A to safeguard the battery? I'm already running my 18A. controller at 16A.

 

[WheezyRider]

The first two columns are for 36v (15.6A and 17.4A), the third column is 48v. 13A.

Agreed about 30A not enough for 31A controller. I've come to the conclusion that a 22A controller is a waste of time with a 20A battery as I would have to restrict it to about 18A to safeguard the battery? I'm already running my 18A. controller at 16A.

I shrank it so could get voltage and current in the same screen shot:



So 36V, 15.5 Ah and 30 A continuous, is that not what you see on the site when viewing from the UK?

What kind of battery do you have? I have often run the Yose Power Silverfish at up to 28A peak and 25 A continuous. The 20 A fuse does not even blow unless I go a bit over 30 A. I have had one BMS fail after a few years of use, but that was refusing to accept charge, not discharge.

 

[Cadence]

I shrank it so could get voltage and current in the same screen shot:

View attachment 53077

So 36V, 15.5 Ah and 30 A continuous, is that not what you see on the site when viewing from the UK?

What kind of battery do you have? I have often run the Yose Power Silverfish at up to 28A peak and 25 A continuous. The 20 A fuse does not even blow unless I go a bit over 30 A. I have had one BMS fail after a few years of use, but that was refusing to accept charge, not discharge.

Yes it is, but those are not supplied with the 350W kits. The one supplied is the 36v 13Ah continuous, which has a max rating of 20A.
36V13Ah HL-I Down Tube Lithium-ion E-bike Battery – YOSE POWER UK
This is the battery that I have.

 

[WheezyRider]

Ah ok. But the controller they ship with it is 22 A?

I would not worry to much about running at 18 A. I've been running Yose Power Silverfish significantly over 20A without issues (I expect the Hailong are probably the same components in different packaging). The Silverfish certainly will run at 20 A continuous and there is reserve for peak amps being over that, with the BMS not shutting down until 50 Amps. I would be sensible and not push things too far, but up to and including 20 A should be fine, with beyond 20 amps still working, up to a limit of about 28 to or so peak, but at your own risk. Worst case scenario is to replace the BMS with something that can handle higher currents.

 

[Cadence]

No. the controller supplied is an 18A which I run at 16A. I was thinking about swapping it for a KT 22A, but with a 20Ah battery I thought that setting it any higher than about 18A would not be good for the battery - at least long term. The difference between 16 and 18A doesn't seem worthwhile.

 

[WheezyRider]

No. the controller supplied is an 18A which I run at 16A. I was thinking about swapping it for a KT 22A, but with a 20Ah battery I thought that setting it any higher than about 18A would not be good for the battery - at least long term. The difference between 16 and 18A doesn't seem worthwhile.

I notice a difference running at 18 compared to 15, but unless you've got some really steep hills to get up, I would not bother going to 22. If you want more performance you start getting to the point where you are better off going to a 48V battery.

Running at higher discharge currents (within reason) is not too much of an issue. 22 A for a 6p pack is still less than 4 A/cell and for most cells of reasonable quality, this is some way below their maximum discharge rate. There are some cheap and nasty cells out there that struggle to do more than about 4 A/cell, but I don't think Yose Power would use them. It is better for battery life to discharge at lower currents, but it's a balance of what you want performance wise vs. longevity/cost etc.

Also, it depends how you use your pack. I tend to charge to 41 V and try to avoid going below 36V (open circuit voltage at rest) before recharging. I think in that range they are able to cope with higher currents without losing so much in terms of cycle life.

 

[Nealh]

Just to confirm your suspicions I enclose a couple of photos of road test short while ago. When I turn the throttle the power indicator goes from three bars to zero, when the motor cuts out I ease off the throttle and the power bars return to three.

Many thanks again

What you are seeing is severe voltage sag and that which is typical from batteries that can't supply the current demand put on them, it is clear your SLA's aren't up to the job.

 

[saneagle]

Thank you for your reply, unfortunately there is no mention of amps on the controller ( please see my reply #11 ). Having said this I did keep a copy of my receipt/invoice which does mention Rated Current 31A.

Hope this is helpful.

All you need is a cell-pack to go in your battery box. take the batteries out and measure the space, then find one to fit.

 

[Mr.Linnet]

What you are seeing is severe voltage sag and that which is typical from batteries that can't supply the current demand put on them, it is clear your SLA's aren't up to the job.

Thank you very much Nealh for your reply and the information you supply.

 

[Mr.Linnet]

All you need is a cell-pack to go in your battery box. take the batteries out and measure the space, then find one to fit.

Many thanks saneagle for your latest reply, I will measure the battery box tomorrow and see what options are available although I have been looking at 36V downtube battery packs which appear to come with their own dedicated downtube bracket.

 

[Mr.Linnet]

Sorry to bump this thread back up again but just wanted to say Thank you very much to all those Esteemed Pedelecers who have previously replied to my messages when I was asking for help and assistance.

Have purchased a Yose battery pack and fitted ( albeit temporarily for the purpose of ensuring everything was working satisfactorily ) to my Powabyke.......what a transformation!

Fitted the battery pack using the dedicated downbar bracket that came with battery pack....................now just pondering...........do I need the old side lead acid battery pack supports any longer?

Now off for another test ride

 

[WheezyRider]

Sorry to bump this thread back up again but just wanted to say Thank you very much to all those Esteemed Pedelecers who have previously replied to my messages when I was asking for help and assistance.

Have purchased a Yose battery pack and fitted ( albeit temporarily for the purpose of ensuring everything was working satisfactorily ) to my Powabyke.......what a transformation!

Fitted the battery pack using the dedicated downbar bracket that came with battery pack....................now just pondering...........do I need the old side lead acid battery pack supports any longer?

Now off for another test ride

Do you mean the metal bars on either side? That is a structural part of the frame.

Good to see you have it up and running.

I would replace the bullet connectors with something like XT60 and make sure the wire is thick enough and tidied up with cable ties to the frame (but don't over tighten).

I put some old inner tube around the side bars, as my plywood box was not bolted down, so it helped it not to rub against the metal. If there is any wobble in your pack, you might consider doing that.

 

[Nealh]

The bars aren't exactly truly structural , their inclusion being just for battery retension/placement. However they stil act as battery protection /retension and tbh doen't look out of place, they save the battery from being knocked/ kicked getting you leg over.

 

[Nealh]

As an side , very pleased you are happy with the new power supply from Yose. Makes one appreciate how much better lion is for delivering power over SLA.

 

[Mr.Linnet]

Do you mean the metal bars on either side? That is a structural part of the frame.

Good to see you have it up and running.

I would replace the bullet connectors with something like XT60 and make sure the wire is thick enough and tidied up with cable ties to the frame (but don't over tighten).

I put some old inner tube around the side bars, as my plywood box was not bolted down, so it helped it not to rub against the metal. If there is any wobble in your pack, you might consider doing that.

Thank you for your reply WheezyRider, yep, I meant the metal bars on either side. They do make pedalling the bike slightly awkward giving a bow legged feel. The new battery pack is quite narrow in comparison to the old lead acid battery pack and there must over an inch to spare either side of the Yose battery pack and the metal bars.

However, if the metal bars are deemed structural then they are here to stay.

The bullet connectors were only used as a temporary measure to carry out a couple of road tests. I have some XT60 connectors waiting to be fitted

 

[Mr.Linnet]

The bars aren't exactly truly structural , their inclusion being just for battery retension/placement. However they stil act as battery protection /retension and tbh doen't look out of place, they save the battery from being knocked/ kicked getting you leg over.

As an side , very pleased you are happy with the new power supply from Yose. Makes one appreciate how much better lion is for delivering power over SLA.

Many thanks Nealh for your two replies. I cant believe the difference the Lithium batteries have made. The Yose pack weighs in at 8lbs the old Powabyke lead acid battery pack weighed in at 1st 12lbs. Win Win all round