52v Controller / Display options?

[scofield]

I've had a bit of a search but excuse me if I missed a thread. I'm looking for a 52v controller and display combo that goes up to 35a as it is for a 1500w motor. One that fits the bill would be this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/154718598813 but it's quite pricey for the big fancy display, unless you go with the en06 display but from what I can gather, the en06 doesn't have a 52v option so I imagine it wouldn't be a simple out of the box solution, i.e. battery capacity and low voltage cutoff etc.

Any recommendations? perhaps someone here is using a 52v battery that works fine on a 48v controller/display setup with some tinkering?

 

[PC2017]

54v ish is full charge on a 48v battery, you need to check the max amps continuous draw on your battery specs first.

 

[scofield]

54v ish is full charge on a 48v battery, you need to check the max amps continuous draw on your battery specs first.

The battery I'm interested in getting is 52v 19.2Ah with 40A BMS.

 

[matthewslack]

I've had a bit of a search but excuse me if I missed a thread. I'm looking for a 52v controller and display combo that goes up to 35a as it is for a 1500w motor. One that fits the bill would be this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/154718598813 but it's quite pricey for the big fancy display, unless you go with the en06 display but from what I can gather, the en06 doesn't have a 52v option so I imagine it wouldn't be a simple out of the box solution, i.e. battery capacity and low voltage cutoff etc.

Any recommendations? perhaps someone here is using a 52v battery that works fine on a 48v controller/display setup with some tinkering?

Try ebikes.ca, baserunner, phaserunner and grinfineon controllers, cycle analyst display, various versions up to 72V.

 

[scofield]

Thanks but they seem to be even more expensive than the 1 I suggested. Maybe the options are much more limited compared to 48v controllers or displays at least.

 

[matthewslack]

Thanks but they seem to be even more expensive than the 1 I suggested. Maybe the options are much more limited compared to 48v controllers or displays at least.

They are, but they are made for higher voltage and higher power - proper kit that you'll only need to buy once, and can move with you from bike to bike.

Good luck finding what you need.

 

[scofield]

They are, but they are made for higher voltage and higher power - proper kit that you'll only need to buy once, and can move with you from bike to bike.

Good luck finding what you need.

I've just gone for that controller with the UKC-1 display, £150 from UK. Not cheap but I can't see much cheaper that fits the bill. I've had enough headache searching now

 

[PC2017]

Make sure the battery contains decent cells, some times going big is required if you try and do it on the cheap things could end badly.

 

[scofield]

Make sure the battery contains decent cells, some times going big is required if you try and do it on the cheap things could end badly.

Well it's supposed to have LG cells, I decided to avoid the cheapest. But I'm taking a chance on whether they are genuine as it seems to be common to find fakes. I guess the only way to be 100% certain is to open it up and have a close look but I don't have the knowledge or experience to be messing with batteries.

 

[PC2017]

Not to mention that could effect any warranty, I was looking at EM3ev, however from memory these are from the US so big bucks but quality craftsmanship. Best to steer clear of Aliexpress, I have used BMSbattery a company based in China I believe, however I max out at 17a and even reaching 17a is rare and for a limited period. The UK company is EbikeBatteries (ad on forum) many praise them but I can not say I've heard of many actually use them, as for me I did reach out once but got limited response, however again pricey. Most people who go the route you have choosen, ie extreme Emotor bike style usually either build their own battery or "know" a dude and have deep pockets.

 

[scofield]

I went with UPP off ebay, Chinese based but shipped from Germany. Mostly good feedback and at least with ebay there's paypal buyer protection. This is meant to have LG Mh1 3200 mah cells. I know they sell cheap packs with unspecified cells or "A grade", but for around £100 more they have these packs claiming to have LG.
I firstly wanted a bigger battery for range, but at the same time thought I'd give it a boost!

 

[PC2017]

If I was you I would check the amp discharge on that cell and don't over stress the cells. Good luck in your endeavour. EDIT if that's Uni pack power proceed with caution.

https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/ebike-battery-fire.41327/#post-618607

 

[Nealh]

MH1 is rated at 10a but Mooch on ECF say's it suffers damage at 10a, so he recommends 7a max per cell for decent life cycle.

 

[scofield]

If I was you I would check the amp discharge on that cell and don't over stress the cells. Good luck in your endeavour. EDIT if that's Uni pack power proceed with caution.

https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/ebike-battery-fire.41327/#post-618607

I've heard of this before and doesn't really concern me, it's still pretty rare. Different cells, different styles maybe different factory, different circumstances etc etc.

MH1 is rated at 10a but Mooch on ECF say's it suffers damage at 10a, so he recommends 7a max per cell for decent life cycle.

Disappointing to hear that, the reviews I've read are good. I've no plan on pushing whatever I get to it's max though.

 

[Nealh]

How a particular cell holds up is dependant on the max current regularly applied and the quantity in parallel to each other so one has to take reviews with pinch of salt.
I prefer the unbiased independent testing/research done by the likes of Mooch at ECF and some of the guys on ES who have no ties to any manufacturer and buy cells to test, sometimes they get free samples to test.
The guys on ES for instance spend valuable time running life cycling tests on the most popular used cells up to 1000 cycles to give an idea of capacity in % terms.

 

[wheeliepete]

Disappointing to hear that, the reviews I've read are good.

If that battery is 19.2Ah with MH1 cells, that's 6P14S, so your 35 amp controller will draw 5.8 amps from each cell at full chuff, so they should do OK.

I've no plan on pushing whatever I get to it's max though.

Don't kid yourself, of course you will

 

[scofield]

Thanks for the info guys.

If that battery is 19.2Ah with MH1 cells, that's 6P14S, so your 35 amp controller will draw 5.8 amps from each cell at full chuff, so they should do OK.

Don't kid yourself, of course you will

The batteries BMS is 40a, how does that translate per cell? Going by what you've said, 35a would be pretty safe.
I certainly want to give it a blast from time to time, but within safe limits

 

[Nealh]

40a current draw takes the cell draw to 6.67a each so near it's optimum performance before damage may occur to the life cycle.
Here are Mooch's comment's on the cell after testing.

Comments

• This cell has a moderate maximum temperature of 73°C-75°C at its 10A rating. But it suffered some damage from five subsequent 10A discharges. While safe to use at 10A I would recommend not exceeding 7A for decent cycle life.
• A 5A discharge run after the 10A discharges showed a drop in voltage and slightly reduced capacity. This indicates that damage was done during the six 10A discharges.
• A discharge at 15A brought the cell temperature to 99°C and dropped the voltage considerably. That's way too hot and will significantly speed up the damage being done and risks venting of the cell. Stay under 10A.

 

[wheeliepete]

Thanks for the info guys.


The batteries BMS is 40a, how does that translate per cell? Going by what you've said, 35a would be pretty safe.
I certainly want to give it a blast from time to time, but within safe limits

The battery doesn't push current, the controller pulls it, so as long as the the BMS rating is above the controllers, it will not reach it's limit. Most controller ratings are +/- 1 amp, so you will be fine when you fancy being a holligan, in appropriate surroundings obviously.

 

[scofield]

Interesting. Seems the battery BMS rating is almost spot on for keeping it at optimum performance.

The battery doesn't push current, the controller pulls it, so as long as the the BMS rating is above the controllers, it will not reach it's limit.

Yes I was interested in how they decided on using 40a BMS in the battery, it's as if they knew that it was the optimum limit, although if the cell rating was actually good at 10a, the BMS could've been higher in theory?
Either way, based on the info I've received, I'll keep the controller at 35a.