Advice appreciated : New controller purchase

[crystaljohn]

Glad to see your topic is still alive crystal john, (but not of course that you are experiencing problems)...
Your old controller looks very similar to mine on the Probike and only 8 wires to/from the rear hub motor and is also 24v, and I have finally decided to follow vfr400 and Nealh's advice and purchase the PSpower controller , LCD3 display ect. but perhaps a bit late to order now as Chinese New Year looms in about three weeks, and anything ordered now MAY be lost in the ether...

is the image in your post a copy of the instructions that came with the new controller, thanks for uploading that as very useful.

I hope that you don't mind me hanging onto your coat tails on this topic, but hopefully it will save me pestering vfr400 and Nealh when I do this work on mine...
Good Luck again John... and thanks to vfr400 and Nealh for their continuing expertise.

Hi Alan

Yes the image I posted is a copy of the instructions that came with the new controller. It is one of 2 pages, clearly identifying the connections, which was very useful to me as I am completely new to this.
Here is the other page:http://www.pswpower.com/ven.php?cargo.2016-3f-3f7c

This new controller looks to be very high quality, all the external wiring connections seem to made of good quality materials, and the L.C.D display and control switches are excellent. I'm looking forward to getting my problem resolved with the assistance of the knowledgeable people on this site eventually.
I have now checked continuity of the hall sensor/motor wiring plug from female to male and that is Ok. I removed the rear wheel and removed the motor cover plate to see if I could access the connections inside to enable me to test the continuity of the vulnerable wires which pass through through the axle, but was thwarted by no accessible connections as everything is secured by a web of fine nylon threads.

Next I intend to check the individual hall sensors ( kindly advised how to do by vfr400)

just seen danielrlee's advice ,and as I am using a stand alone speed sensor, I will set the parameters P2 to 1 so will attempt that soon.

 

[crystaljohn]

Not sure if this is the cause of your problem, but if you're using a standalone wheel speed sensor, custom parameter P2 should be set to '1'.

O
I can see no sign of any custom parameter P2, so I'm unable to set it to '1'

What does custom parameter P2 relate to please?

 

[crystaljohn]

I have now checked the Hall sensors by applying 5v DC accross the Red and Black wires in the hall sensor plug, and then measuring between each of the 3 wires, Yellow , Blue and Green to Ground ( black) I observed that the voltage was switching on/off numerous times as I revolved the rear wheel backwards. I would estimate each 5 deegree of revolution produced an 'on/off.'

I then thought I would measure the resistance of the following :
Red to Yellow=9k
Red to Green -=9k
Red to Blue = 9k



Yellow to Blue=18k
Blue to Green = 18k
Yellow to Green =18k

I would hazard a guess that the coils are intact?

I stlll have the '03' Error displayed on the dash as soon as I activate the throttle.

Any ideas anyone?

 

[Nealh]

Your voltage and resistance tests are fine, nothing wrong electrically.
The P2 setting can be found after you have entered in to the basic settings. once you have gone to the last setting, simultaneously hold the up/down buttons again to enter the P settings.
P2 is the parameter for the wheel speed pulse, most hubs have one or six magnets for sensing so the appropriate value is selected. A spoke magnet/sensor would be P2/1.

 

[crystaljohn]

Thanks Neilh It's reassuring to hear that my findings show no abnormalities.

I was hoping they were all good as my bike was working well , until it suddenly stopped working, which I thought was as a consequence of the controller packing up.
I'm struggling to get to grips with the unfamiliar to me KT-LCD3 display, the brief instruction manual that came with the display is not that clear. I have now found a few youtube videos that show how to set so I will persevere.

John.


























t

 

[crystaljohn]

At last: after many hours buggering around I have at last 'mastered' the controls of the L.C.D
The major issue I was having was I didn't appreciate that you have to more or less immediately press the up and down buttons together after turn on, to access the next level of menu to enable you to change values.

I have now set to the following, but still unfortunately get the 03 error as soon as I twist the throttle.

P1-87 * that's what was already there so haven't altered it ( possibly not correct for my motor!

P2=1
P3=1
P4=0
P5=15

C1=2
C2-=0
C3=5
C4=0
C6=3
C7=0
C8=1
C9=0
C10='n'
C11=0
C12=4
C13=0
C14=2

I have a feeling that none of these settings is influencing the 03 error message?

 

[Nealh]

C1 is the only one that may be wrong, if you are using the KTV12 pas as in #13 then C1 05, 06 or 07 might be better.

Did all three halls switch 0v - 5v in testing ?

The fact the 03 occurs when you use the throttle might indicate conflict some where in the controller, it is possible that the throttle hall is the issue.
Try a voltage test on the throttle.
5v/Gnd = 5v.
Signal/Gnd = 1v with throttle closed and when opened you should see 4 -5v.

 

[crystaljohn]

Thanks Neil , appreciated.

Yes, all 3 halls switched the 5v on/off.

I didn’t fit the new P.A.S that I bought ( shown in the photo post 13) as I couldn’t remove the crank as no extractor! I’m still using the original.
I bought a new throttle, as I was unsure about the existing throttle being a possible cause of my original problems when my bike with the old controller stopped working. It was a cheap one off eBay, circa £3.50!


Now I know how to test it I’ll check that in the morning.

Regards,John.

 

[crystaljohn]

New Throttle tested:

Supply=5.15volts

Throttle closed =0.83volts

Throttle open=4.4volts


so doesn't appear to be a problem with that.

 

[Nealh]

Throttle is ok then.
Does the system work ok or does the error prevent operation ?

 

[crystaljohn]

No change after testing the throttle, still have 03 error!

So, I thought I would remove the controller from where it lives , in an enclosure underneath the crank axle to enable me to check everything more thoroughly for potential short circuits, broken wires etc.

I then inspected everything, no apparent damage evident, so I reconnected all the connectors and was surprised to see the battery indicator on the LCD display showing empty.

Battery is fully charged and I measured the voltage at the connectors at the base of the battery=40 volts.

Checked I had 40 odd volts present at the red and black wires that connect into the controller =40v

Checked the voltage at the 5 pin connector that goes to the LCD =40v

so now haven't got a clue whats going on , the battery indicator has always shown all bars full all the time I have been working on the bike.

JUST REALISED, ALTHOUGH THE BATTERY LEVEL INDICATOR IS NOT SHOWING ANY BARS ( EMPTY) I NO LONGER HAVE THE 03 ERROR BEING GENERATED WHEN I OPEN THE THROTTLE! Unfortunately no sign of any action from the motor though!

 

[crystaljohn]

Been playing around with P5 settings, tried all numbers from 1-15 still no bars showing on indicator.

Changed P5 to 0 now all bars present on indicator.

Still not working though!

 

[crystaljohn]

been reading the original advert for the controller I bought and just noticed this:

Note:

This is sensor controller, so controller has three big cable and five sensor wires and one speed sensor wire. you motor must have 8pcs wires or 9pcs wires, If you motor just three big cable,please buy sensorless controller

 

[Nealh]

The controller is correct one for your sensored hub.
The 03 error could be a faulty sense wire connection in the white hall block or even a broken wire from the controller, a continuity check on the controller sense wires would confirm good or bad any issue. Though you would need to disconnect the controller and open it to access the board contact to carry out the continuity.

Are you using any brake cut offs or kill switches, if so disconnect them.

 

[Nealh]

I would start again disconnect every thing and just connect the display and PAS to see if it works also double check the motor wire connector and that it is positively push home to the raised line marked, there are embossed arrows for correct alignment. Once you get the hub working add one component at a time to see where may conflict may lie, so speed sensor, throttle then lastly brakes (you only need one brake cut off and usually rear is my preference so RH is free for signals).

 

[Nealh]

How many poles does the PAS use ?

 

[crystaljohn]

Did you see my Capital letters in post #31 where I said I don’t have the 03 error anymore?
My PAS has 6 poles.
I do have brakes switches, but I’ve left them unplugged to eliminate any potential problems. No kill switch fitted.
Did you see in my list of settings -post #26 that P1 is set to 87(that was the setting already there, not knowing anything else, I left it at that.Thanks for your help, much appreciated.
John

 

[crystaljohn]

I disconnected everything again.

Just checked the throttle connector directly from the controller and measured to see if I had 5 volts between red and black. I don't , I have 0.97 volts!

*When I tested the throttle previously, I used an external supply to check the voltages, this is the first time I have measured the voltage from the controller.

Only thing that's changed is I have altered a few of the settings.

I had to alter P5 to zero ( from 15) to enable any bars to show on the battery indicator display.

I also upped C1 to 5 ( from 2)

I'd take a guess that this is the reason my motor isn't turning when i twist the throttle- possibly I have a faulty controller?